The historic core is organized around four squares linked by the pedestrian streets Obispo and Mercaderes: Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza de San Francisco and Plaza Vieja. Much of it has been restored by the City Historian's office, yet two blocks away facades are still crumbling. Allow two full days to cover it without rushing, starting early in the morning: by noon the heat and the touts make strolling less pleasant. It is the natural gateway to a trip around
Cuba.
The Malecón runs along the sea for about 8 km, from the mouth of the bay to the Almendares river. In the evening, families, musicians and fishermen settle on the seawall: it is the city's living room. Behind it, Centro Habana is the densest and most authentic district, far from the restored streets, with wrought iron balconies and lines outside state shops. In stormy weather, especially in winter, waves crash over the wall and traffic is sometimes closed: walk on the building side.
To the west, Vedado was built in the early 20th century on a grid plan, with wide shaded avenues and eclectic villas. It holds the university, the Coppelia ice cream parlor, the grand hotels of the 1930s to 1950s and the best casas particulares in town, quieter than those in the old city. Calle 23, nicknamed La Rampa, gathers cinemas, airline offices and the ETECSA telecom agency. Allow 30 minutes on foot from the Capitolio along the Malecón, or 10 minutes by taxi.
Across the Almendares, Miramar lines up embassies, pre-1959 mansions and paladares set in former villas. Quinta Avenida, bordered by gardens, is better covered by car than on foot as distances are long. The district is mostly worth it for its restaurants and the national aquarium rather than for monuments. If you stay here, budget for daily taxis: it takes 20 to 30 minutes to reach Old Havana depending on traffic.
Facing the old town, the Morro-Cabaña military park brings together the two fortresses that guarded the harbor entrance. You get there by taxi through the tunnel under the bay in about ten minutes, or by ferry from Avenida del Puerto to Casablanca, where a short walk uphill leads to the Christ of Havana statue. Plan half a day in the late afternoon: the sunset light over the city, followed by the 9 pm cannon ceremony at La Cabaña, makes staying into the evening worthwhile.
Havana comes alive at night. Son and salsa ring out in the bars along Obispo from the afternoon, while larger venues in Vedado host big bands and jazz. On Sundays around noon, Afro-Cuban rumba fills Callejón de Hamel in Centro Habana. Concerts rarely start before 10 pm and programs change often: ask your host or check local posters on the day. Take a taxi back, as poorly lit streets are common during power cuts.
Ernest Hemingway lived in Havana for about twenty years. His room at the Ambos Mundos hotel on Obispo can be visited, and the Floridita and Bodeguita del Medio bars trade on his memory, at the cost of heavy tourist crowds. His house, Finca Vigía, stands in San Francisco de Paula, some fifteen kilometers southeast: you view the interior through the windows without going in. The small fishing port of Cojímar, which inspired The Old Man and the Sea, fits easily into the same half day.
The Playas del Este begin about twenty kilometers east, with Santa María del Mar as the busiest beach: pale sand, calm water, little shade, about 30 minutes by taxi. For a more memorable outing, the Viñales valley and its mogotes lie about 180 km west, nearly three hours by road: doable as a day trip, but a night there is far more enjoyable. Viazul buses serve both destinations, though schedules remain irregular because of fuel shortages.
