Discover Tajikistan: Fann mountain treks and itineraries

Covered in mountains across almost its entire territory, Tajikistan offers hikers the high lakes of the Fann mountains, the villages of the Zeravshan valley and a leafy capital, Dushanbe, starting point of some of the most impressive mountain pass roads in Central Asia.

What does a trip to Tajikistan offer?

Tajikistan mainly attracts hikers: the Fann mountains, a few hours from Dushanbe, offer three to seven-day treks between lakes and passes, from July to September. The country is often combined with neighbouring Uzbekistan, as Samarkand is only about sixty kilometres from Penjikent.

What to discover in Tajikistan?

Dushanbe and the Hissar valley

Dushanbe takes one to two days: shady Rudaki Avenue, the national museum, parks and the large Mehrgon bazaar. The partly rebuilt Hissar fortress lies about thirty kilometres west, for half a day. In July and August, heat often exceeds 35 °C in town: a good reason to head for altitude. The northern road, through the Anzob tunnel, reaches Lake Iskanderkul and the Fann mountains in three to four hours.

The Fann mountains and the Zeravshan valley

This is the most accessible and most recommended region for a first trip. Allow at least a week: one night at Lake Iskanderkul, at around 2,200 metres, then a three to five-day trek to the Alauddin and Kulikalon lakes, and the Seven Lakes valley of Marguzor, reachable by car from Penjikent. Near that town, the proto-urban site of Sarazm is UNESCO-listed. Passes stay snowbound until June: aim for July to mid-September.

The Pamirs and Gorno-Badakhshan

In the south-east, the Pamir Highway crosses plateaus above 4,000 metres, but much of its route and the Wakhan valley run along the Afghan border, strongly advised against by the French foreign ministry. Check its up-to-date map before any plan. The region also requires a special permit, requested with the e-visa or, if entering visa-free, at the OVIR office in Dushanbe. The northern stretch, from Lake Karakul to Osh in Kyrgyzstan, stays away from that border, but takes three to four days from Khorog.

Cities to visit in Tajikistan

Featured destinations appear first.
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Must-sees in Tajikistan

Five sites reachable from Dushanbe or Penjikent, staying clear of areas advised against.

Lake Iskanderkul

A turquoise lake at around 2,200 metres in the heart of the Fann mountains, linked by legend to Alexander the Great, with a waterfall close by.

Marguzor Seven Lakes

A string of seven lakes of changing colours in a narrow valley, linked by a track and footpaths starting from Penjikent.

Alauddin Lakes

High mountain lakes in the Fann range, the classic base for treks to the nearby passes, surrounded by peaks over 5,000 metres.

Sarazm site

Remains of a proto-urban settlement from the fourth millennium BC, UNESCO-listed, a few kilometres from Penjikent.

Hissar Fortress

The monumental gate and restored madrasas of a former stronghold in the Hissar valley, about thirty kilometres from Dushanbe.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drive the Pamir Highway while avoiding advised-against areas?
Not entirely: between Kalaikhum and Khorog, then in the Wakhan, the road runs along the Afghan border, strongly advised against by the French foreign ministry. For a first trip, the Fann mountains are a safer alternative. Check the ministry's up-to-date map before deciding.
How many days for the Alauddin and Kulikalon lakes trek?
Allow three to five days of walking depending on the route, with a pass at around 3,600 metres between the two basins. Porters and donkeys can be hired in the starting villages. A local guide is advisable if you are not used to high mountains.
How to get from Penjikent to Samarkand?
By road, about sixty kilometres separate the two towns, via the border post near Penjikent. The crossing lets you combine the Fann mountains with the Uzbek Zeravshan valley. Check the day before that the post is open to foreigners, as rules can change.
Can you stay overnight at Lake Iskanderkul?
Yes, guesthouses and a holiday camp welcome travellers on the lakeshore in summer, and camping is common. A night there lets you enjoy the lake in peace once the day visitors from Dushanbe have left.
Is the Anzob tunnel passable all year?
It is open all year and avoids the pass, but it is long, poorly lit and sometimes flooded or congested. Plan an experienced driver and spare time, especially in winter, when the approach road can be hit by avalanches.

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