Travel to Bhutan: entry rules, seasons and itinerary

Wedged between India and the Tibetan plateau, Bhutan welcomes few visitors and is proud of it. Whitewashed monastic fortresses, prayer flags on mountain passes, masked dance festivals and a monastery clinging to the Paro cliff: a slow, guided and genuinely different journey.

Why visit Bhutan?

Bhutan is one of the few countries in Asia to have made low-volume tourism official policy, funded by a Sustainable Development Fee paid by visitors for every night spent in the country. Vajrayana Buddhism still shapes its architecture, festival calendar and daily life, which makes a trip here feel very different from its neighbours.

What to discover in Bhutan?

Paro and Thimphu, the gateway to the kingdom

All international flights land at Paro, the country's only international airport, served by Drukair and Bhutan Airlines from cities including Delhi in India, Bangkok and Kathmandu, capital of Himalayan Nepal. The Paro valley, at around 2,200 metres, deserves two days: one for Rinpung Dzong and the national museum, the other for the climb to the Tiger's Nest. Thimphu, the capital, is about an hour's drive away. One or two days are enough for its weekend market, the textile museum and the giant Buddha overlooking the valley.

Punakha and the Dochula pass

From Thimphu the road crosses the Dochula pass, at about 3,100 metres and crowned with 108 chortens, before dropping to the warmer Punakha valley, roughly three hours' drive in total. On clear days, especially from October to December, the pass offers open views of the Himalayan range. Punakha, the kingdom's former capital, needs one or two nights: its dzong at the meeting of two rivers, the Chimi Lhakhang temple set among rice fields and the long suspension bridge across the Pho Chhu. The terraced paddies turn from summer green to autumn gold.

Central Bhutan, from Phobjikha to Bumthang

Trips of more than a week head into the centre of the country. The glacial Phobjikha valley, at around 3,000 metres, hosts black-necked cranes from the Tibetan plateau every winter, roughly from late October to February, watched over by Gangtey monastery. Further east, the Bumthang region gathers several of the kingdom's oldest temples and is reached after a long day on winding roads. Allow at least ten days in total to include it, because distances here are measured in hours far more than in kilometres.

Cities to visit in Bhutan

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Unmissable in Bhutan

Five places that capture the country, from the Paro cliff to the Punakha rice terraces.

Taktsang Monastery

Clinging to a cliff some 900 metres above the Paro valley, the Tiger's Nest is reached on a trail that takes two to three hours to climb.

Punakha Dzong

A 17th-century monastic fortress at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, especially photogenic in spring when the jacarandas bloom.

Buddha Dordenma

A gilded bronze statue around fifty metres tall overlooking Thimphu from a hillside, housing thousands of smaller Buddha statues inside.

Paro Tshechu

A spring religious festival with masked dances in the dzong courtyard and, at dawn on the last day, the unveiling of a huge embroidered thangka.

Chimi Lhakhang

A small late 15th-century temple near Punakha, dedicated to the lama Drukpa Kunley and reached by a short walk through the rice fields.

Frequently asked questions

How long does the hike to the Tiger's Nest take?
Allow two to three hours to climb from the car park at the foot of the cliff, then about two hours back down, so the visit fills at least half a day. A cafeteria halfway up offers a rest stop and a fine view. Start early in the morning to avoid heat and crowds.
Does Bhutan's SDF include the hotel and guide?
No. The Sustainable Development Fee is a contribution paid to the state for every night spent in the country. Accommodation, guide, driver and meals are paid on top, usually bundled into a package offered by the local agency that organises the trip.
Can you travel in Bhutan on your own without a guide?
Only in Thimphu and Paro. To go further, to Punakha, Phobjikha or Bumthang, a licensed guide remains mandatory, as it does for mountain treks. In practice most visitors book a full tour with guide and vehicle from the moment they arrive.
When are the Paro and Thimphu tshechus held?
The Paro tshechu takes place in spring, usually in March or April, and the Thimphu one in autumn, in September or October. Their dates follow the Bhutanese lunar calendar and change every year, so check them before booking, as accommodation fills up quickly during the festivals.
Why is landing at Paro considered so difficult?
The runway sits at the bottom of a narrow valley ringed by peaks, which requires a visual approach with tight turns. Only a small number of specially trained pilots are certified to land there, and flights operate in daylight. Ask for a left-hand seat to see the Himalaya when arriving from the west.

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