Visit Guatemala: itinerary, when to go and things to do

Cobbled streets in Antigua beneath three volcanoes, Maya villages on the shores of Lake Atitlán, the temples of Tikal rising from the Petén jungle and colourful highland markets: Guatemala offers a rare immersion in a Maya culture that is very much alive.

Why travel to Guatemala?

Guatemala packs active volcanoes, Lake Atitlán and one of the largest Maya cities, UNESCO-listed Tikal, into a compact territory. More than 40% of the population is of Maya descent and around twenty Maya languages are spoken, making it the country most shaped by that culture in Central America.

What to discover in Guatemala?

Antigua and the Panchoy Valley

A former colonial capital wrecked by the 1773 earthquakes, Antigua has been UNESCO-listed since 1979 and is the base camp for most travellers. It lies about 45 km from Guatemala City airport, one to two hours depending on traffic. Allow three nights for its ruined churches, the Capuchinas convent, the market and a Spanish course, something the town is well known for. During Holy Week the streets are covered with coloured sawdust carpets: book several months ahead.

The volcanoes of the central range

The country has around thirty volcanoes, three of them active and visible from Antigua: Fuego, Pacaya and Santiaguito. Climbing Acatenango (3,976 m) takes two days with a night in a shelter facing Fuego, which erupts several times an hour. It requires good fitness and warm clothing, as temperatures drop below freezing at night. Pacaya, an easier climb, takes half a day from Antigua. Always go with a licensed guide.

Lake Atitlán and its villages

About 2.5 hours by road from Antigua, this crater lake at 1,560 m is ringed by three volcanoes and a dozen Maya villages linked by lanchas. Panajachel has most services, San Pedro draws budget travellers, San Marcos yoga retreats and Santiago keeps its Tz'utujil traditions. Plan three to four nights and cross the lake in the morning: the southern wind known as Xocomil whips up the water in the afternoon.

The highlands and their markets

North of the lake, the Altiplano highlands remain home to K'iche' and Ixil communities. The Chichicastenango market, about 1.5 hours from Panajachel, runs on Thursdays and Sundays, with rituals blending Catholicism and Maya traditions on the steps of the Santo Tomás church. Further west, Quetzaltenango, the country's second city, is the starting point for the Santa María volcano and the Fuentes Georginas hot springs.

Petén and the Maya cities

The northern half of the country is covered by the Petén forest, home to Tikal, an hour and a half by road from the island town of Flores. Allow a full day on site, ideally sleeping nearby to enter at opening time, when the howler monkeys wake up. The most determined reach El Mirador on a five-day return trek through the jungle. The Guatemala City to Flores flight takes about an hour, compared with eight to ten hours by road.

Alta Verapaz and Semuc Champey

In the mountainous Alta Verapaz region, Semuc Champey lines up turquoise pools on a natural limestone bridge above the Cahabón River. The site is about ten kilometres from the village of Lanquín, along a track covered by pick-up truck. Plan two nights, all the more since the drive from Antigua or Flores takes around eight hours. The Kan'ba cave is explored by candlelight, swimming in places.

The Caribbean coast and the Río Dulce

Guatemala also has a short Caribbean coastline. The Río Dulce links Lake Izabal to the sea through a forested canyon, a boat trip of about two hours down to Livingston, a Garifuna town reachable only by water. One or two nights are enough for coconut-milk cooking and the Siete Altares waterfalls. From Livingston, regular boats also head north to southern neighbouring Belize.

Cities to visit in Guatemala

Featured destinations appear first.
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Must-sees in Guatemala

Ten places that capture the country, from the southern volcanoes to the Petén forest.

Tikal

UNESCO-listed Maya city in the heart of Petén, where Temple IV towers over the canopy and offers a famous sunrise view.

Acatenango Volcano

Two-day hike to nearly 4,000 m to watch the regular night-time eruptions of neighbouring Fuego volcano.

Santa Catalina Arch

Seventeenth-century yellow arch framing Agua volcano, now the signature view of Antigua's cobbled streets.

Chichicastenango Market

Large Indigenous highland market on Thursdays and Sundays, mixing textiles, masks and incense in front of the Santo Tomás church.

Semuc Champey Pools

A series of turquoise pools on a limestone bridge where you can swim in the middle of the Alta Verapaz forest.

San Juan La Laguna

Lake Atitlán village known for its weaving cooperatives using natural dyes and for its painted murals.

Flores Island

Small island of colourful houses on Lake Petén Itzá, an ideal base for reaching Tikal and Yaxhá.

Yaxhá

Lagoon-side Maya site far quieter than Tikal, popular for its sunset view from the top of Temple 216.

Indian Nose

Summit reached in about an hour's walk from San Juan, where the sun rises over the lake's volcanoes.

Quiriguá

UNESCO-listed Maya site famous for its carved stelae, among the tallest in the Maya world.

Frequently asked questions

Can you climb Acatenango without mountain experience?
No technical skill is needed, but real stamina is: about 1,500 m of ascent on a steep trail at high altitude. A licensed guide is essential, along with a warm jacket, gloves and a head torch. Acclimatise for a few days in Antigua before you go.
Which Lake Atitlán village should you stay in?
Panajachel is practical for connections and services, San Pedro for a backpacker vibe, San Marcos for calm and yoga, Santa Cruz for hillside hotels facing the volcanoes. Lanchas link all these villages during the day but usually stop running in the late afternoon.
Should you stay near Tikal or day-trip from Flores?
A return trip from Flores is fine for a standard visit. Staying in one of the lodges at the park entrance, however, lets you arrive before the groups and watch the dawn, when wildlife is most active and the heat is still bearable.
Are two weeks enough for Antigua, Atitlán and Tikal?
Two weeks let you combine Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Chichicastenango and Tikal. With three weeks, add Semuc Champey and the Río Dulce. Distances look short on the map but mountain roads are slow: rarely count on more than 50 km per hour.
Is Antigua worth visiting in the rainy season?
Yes. From May to October, rain falls mostly in the late afternoon and mornings are often sunny. The landscapes are greener and accommodation is cheaper. Volcano hikes do offer less visibility, however, and some Petén tracks turn muddy.
Can you cross from Guatemala to Belize overland?
Yes, the Melchor de Mencos border post, about two hours from Flores, is the most used and combines well with a Tikal visit. Shuttles link Flores to San Ignacio or Belize City. A boat also connects Puerto Barrios or Livingston with southern Belize.
Where should you see Holy Week in Guatemala?
Antigua hosts the most spectacular processions, with carpets of sawdust, flowers and fruit made overnight and then trodden by the processions. Accommodation is full months in advance and prices rise sharply: book early or stay in a nearby village.
Is Guatemala a good place to learn Spanish?
It is one of the most popular destinations for it. Antigua and Quetzaltenango have many schools offering one-to-one lessons by the week, often with a homestay. Spanish there is spoken slowly and clearly, which helps beginners.

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