Plan a trip to Kazakhstan: itineraries and best seasons

From the snowy peaks above Almaty to the ochre canyons of Charyn, from the turquoise Kolsai lakes to the Turkestan mausoleum, Kazakhstan unrolls the Central Asian steppe over thousands of kilometres, all the way to Astana's glass towers and the white cliffs of Mangystau.

Why travel to Kazakhstan?

Kazakhstan is the easiest gateway to Central Asia: direct flights to Almaty, visa-free access for up to 30 days for French travellers and vast landscapes less than a day's drive away. It combines naturally with Kyrgyzstan, whose border is only a few hours from Almaty.

What to discover in Kazakhstan?

Almaty and the Tian Shan foothills

The former capital and largest city, Almaty backs onto the Zailiysky Alatau mountains. Allow three days: one for the city, the Green Bazaar and the wooden Ascension Cathedral, two for the heights. The Medeu skating rink, at around 1,700 metres, and the Shymbulak resort, linked by gondola, are half an hour from the centre. Big Almaty Lake, at about 2,500 metres, makes a day trip from June to October; its surroundings near the border sometimes involve a passport check.

Canyons and lakes of the south-east

East of Almaty, the classic loop links Charyn Canyon, about three hours' drive away, with the Kolsai lakes and Lake Kaindy further south. Plan three days and a homestay night in Saty, the starting village for the lakes. The best period runs from June to September: tracks to Kaindy become difficult after rain and winter closes some access. Altyn-Emel park and its singing dune need an extra day, with a permit issued by the park administration.

Astana, capital of the steppes

Capital since 1997, Astana was largely rebuilt in the twenty-first century around a monumental axis linking the Baiterek tower to Khan Shatyr, a giant glass tent shopping centre. Two days are enough. The city ranks among the coldest capitals in the world: from December to February temperatures often drop below -20 °C, while summer can exceed 30 °C. From Almaty, allow less than two hours by plane or one night on a fast train.

The historic south: Turkestan and the Silk Road

In the south, the town of Turkestan preserves the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, a late fourteenth-century Timurid masterpiece on the UNESCO list, about two hours' drive from Shymkent. One day is enough, avoiding July and August, when heat frequently exceeds 35 °C. The nearby ruins of Otrar recall the caravan stops of the Silk Road. From Shymkent, the border with Uzbekistan and Tashkent is only about two hours away.

Mangystau, desert by the Caspian

In the west, the Mangystau region around Aktau lines up chalk cliffs, salt depressions and underground necropolises in an almost empty desert. Bozzhyra, several hours of track from Aktau, can only be reached by 4x4 with a local driver: allow two to three days with nights camping or in a yurt. Spring and early autumn are the only comfortable seasons. Aktau has flights to Baku, making it easy to combine the region with Azerbaijan.

Cities to visit in Kazakhstan

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Must-sees in Kazakhstan

Nine sites to grasp the scale of the country, from Tian Shan glaciers to Caspian deserts.

Charyn Canyon

A red rock gorge several dozen kilometres long, whose Valley of Castles can be walked down to the river in about an hour.

Lake Kaindy

A mountain lake created by a landslide, from which the trunks of a sunken spruce forest rise, reached by a track from the village of Saty.

Kolsai Lakes

Three stepped lakes in a wooded Tian Shan valley, linked by a hiking trail; the first can be reached by car, the others on foot.

Big Almaty Lake

A turquoise reservoir set at around 2,500 metres above Almaty, whose colour shifts with the season and the melting of surrounding glaciers.

Medeu and Shymbulak

A high-altitude skating rink and ski resort linked by gondola, half an hour from central Almaty, popular with hikers in summer.

Yasawi Mausoleum

A Timurid mausoleum in Turkestan with a turquoise dome, UNESCO-listed, left unfinished and an important pilgrimage site for Central Asian Muslims.

Baiterek Tower

Astana's emblematic tower topped by a golden sphere, whose observation deck offers an overview of the capital's monumental axis.

Singing Dune

An isolated dune in Altyn-Emel park that emits a deep rumble in dry, windy weather, several hours' drive north-east of Almaty.

Bozzhyra

A landscape of white cliffs and chalk pinnacles on the Ustyurt plateau in Mangystau, reachable only by 4x4 from Aktau.

Frequently asked questions

Can you do Charyn, Kolsai and Kaindy in one trip from Almaty?
It is possible in two rushed days, but three days are more realistic, with a homestay night in Saty. Distances are long and tracks slow. Almaty agencies run group tours; otherwise a car with driver gives more flexibility.
Do you need a permit to hike near Big Almaty Lake?
The lake itself is open to visitors, but the area is close to the Kyrgyz border and passport checks may take place on the road. Beyond it, towards the observatory and the passes, some border sectors require a permit: check with Almaty agencies before setting off.
How long is the train from Almaty to Astana?
Fast Talgo-type trains link the two cities in about twelve hours overnight, while classic trains take considerably longer. The flight takes under two hours. The night train saves a hotel night and lets you wake up to the steppe rolling past.
Can you travel overland from Almaty to Bishkek?
Yes, it is one of the busiest crossings in Central Asia: about four hours by road to the Kyrgyz capital via the Korday crossing, by minibus, shared taxi or car with driver. French travellers need no visa for either country.
Can you visit the Baikonur Cosmodrome?
Only on trips organised by specialist agencies, with permission obtained in advance, as the town is leased to and administered by Russia. Visits are usually timed around launches. It is not a stop you can improvise on an independent trip.
When to ski at Shymbulak?
The season generally runs from December to April, with snow cover often reliable thanks to the altitude. The resort is reached from Almaty via the Medeu gondola in about thirty minutes, so you can ski for the day while staying in town.
What to eat in Kazakhstan besides plov?
Beshbarmak, the national dish of boiled meat served on wide noodles, kazy, a horse meat sausage, and baursak, fried dough served with tea. Kumis, fermented mare's milk, is mostly drunk in summer. Almaty's Green Bazaar lets you taste it all in one morning.
Is Kazakhstan suitable for a winter trip?
Yes for Almaty and skiing at Shymbulak, or to see Astana under snow, provided you are well equipped. However, the Kolsai and Kaindy lakes and the Mangystau tracks are hardly passable from November to March. For a first trip, aim for May to June or September.

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