Travel to Mongolia: tours, best season and nomadic life

Nearly three times the size of France and among the least densely populated countries in the world, Mongolia is explored by 4x4 on dirt tracks, from ger to ger. The singing dunes of the Gobi, the Orkhon valley, Lake Khuvsgul and the eagle hunters of the Altai make a journey of space and silence.

Why visit Mongolia?

Mongolia offers rare immersion in a living pastoral culture: a significant share of the population still herds horses, camels and yaks and lives in a ger for part of the year. Its landscapes, from the Gobi desert to the northern taiga, are explored on one- to three-week tours, mainly from June to September, the mildest season in Central and East Asia for this kind of trip.

What to discover in Mongolia?

Ulaanbaatar and its surroundings

The capital is home to nearly half the country's population and almost all international flights. Two days are enough for Gandan monastery, Sükhbaatar Square and the national museum. Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, about an hour and a half's drive away, offers a first night in a ger among granite boulders, and the giant equestrian statue of Genghis Khan stands around fifty kilometres out. Ulaanbaatar is also a stop on the Trans-Mongolian line, which links China to Russia and reaches Beijing in about thirty hours.

The Gobi desert

A tour of the south takes six to eight days round trip from Ulaanbaatar, with long days on dirt tracks, or less if you fly to Dalanzadgad. The classic stops are the red cliffs of Bayanzag, where dinosaur eggs were found in the 1920s, the Yolyn Am gorge, where ice sometimes lingers until June, and the Khongoryn Els dunes. Nights stay cool even in summer, so a good sleeping bag is essential. Avoid spring, the season of sandstorms.

The Orkhon valley and Karakorum

Inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004, the Orkhon Valley cultural landscape holds traces of several nomadic empires. Kharkhorin, the former Karakorum, capital of the Mongol empire in the 13th century, lies about 360 kilometres from Ulaanbaatar, six to seven hours by road. What remains is mostly Erdene Zuu monastery, founded in 1585. Further up the valley, the Orkhon waterfall and Tövkhön monastery combine with the Gobi on a twelve- to fifteen-day tour.

Lake Khuvsgul and the north

Near the Russian border, Lake Khuvsgul is a clear freshwater reservoir surrounded by larch forests, at nearly 1,650 metres above sea level. It is reached by a flight to Mörön followed by two to three hours by road to Khatgal, or by several days on dirt tracks. Allow at least three nights to enjoy horseback rides along its shores. The lake freezes completely in winter and hosts an ice festival in early March. The camp season runs mainly from June to September.

The Altai and Bayan-Ölgii province

In the far west, Bayan-Ölgii province is mostly populated by Kazakhs, kin to the people of neighbouring Kazakhstan, who keep alive the tradition of hunting with golden eagles. The Eagle Festival in early October draws visitors from around the world every year. It is reached by a flight of about three hours from Ulaanbaatar, as the road takes several days. The snowy peaks of Altai Tavan Bogd National Park suit treks of five to ten days, to be booked with a local agency.

Naadam and nomadic life

Naadam, the national festival held every year from 11 to 13 July, brings together the three manly games: wrestling, horse races ridden by children and archery. The Ulaanbaatar Naadam is the most spectacular, but provincial naadams are more intimate. Staying with a nomadic family, even for two or three nights, remains the best way to understand a way of life shared with Kyrgyzstan, another land of herders: milking mares, fermented airag and seasonal moves.

Cities to visit in Mongolia

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Unmissable in Mongolia

Eight sites along the main tours, from the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar to the heart of the Gobi.

Gandan Monastery

Ulaanbaatar's main Buddhist monastery, home to a gilded statue of Migjid Janraisig about 26 metres tall and daily services open to the public.

Genghis Khan Statue

A giant stainless steel equestrian statue rising from the Tsonjin Boldog steppe, whose horse's head can be reached by an inside lift.

Turtle Rock

A turtle-shaped granite formation in Gorkhi-Terelj park, the classic first ger stop when leaving the capital.

Khongoryn Els Dunes

A belt of sand dunes around a hundred kilometres long in the Gobi, whose crest can be climbed on foot for sunset.

Bayanzag Cliffs

Red sandstone escarpments that blaze at dusk, famous for the dinosaur fossils found by Roy Chapman Andrews's expedition.

Yolyn Am Gorge

A narrow canyon in the Gurvan Saikhan mountains where a corridor of ice often lasts into early summer, explored on foot or horseback.

Erdene Zuu Monastery

The oldest surviving Buddhist monastery in the country, enclosed by a wall punctuated with 108 white stupas in Kharkhorin.

Orkhon Waterfall

A drop of about twenty metres into a basalt canyon, in a valley of meadows where herds graze in summer.

Frequently asked questions

How many days for a Gobi tour from Ulaanbaatar?
Allow six to eight days round trip by 4x4 for Bayanzag, Yolyn Am and the Khongoryn Els dunes, with several days of six to eight hours on dirt tracks. A domestic flight to Dalanzadgad saves two days. Add four to five days to return via the Orkhon valley.
Can you rent a car and drive yourself in Mongolia?
It is possible but not advised for a first trip. Off the main roads, tracks branch out without signs, petrol stations are far apart and navigation takes real experience. Most travellers hire a 4x4 with a driver, often a UAZ van, who can also handle repairs in the middle of the steppe.
What is a night with nomads in a ger like?
You share salty milk tea, often dried curd and sometimes airag, before sleeping on beds or mattresses around the central stove. Toilets are basic and there is no shower. Bring a small useful gift, do not point your feet towards the altar and do not whistle inside.
When is the Bayan-Ölgii Eagle Festival?
The main festival takes place in early October, usually on the first weekend of the month, near Ölgii. Kazakh hunters show their golden eagles in recall and hunting contests, alongside horseback games. It is already cold at altitude: pack winter clothing and book your flights early.
Can you take the Trans-Mongolian train from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing?
Yes. The international train links Ulaanbaatar and Beijing in about thirty hours, with a long stop at the Erenhot border to change the bogies, as the rail gauge differs. Book tickets in advance, especially in summer, and a Chinese visa may be needed depending on your nationality.
Do you need a ticket for the Ulaanbaatar Naadam?
Yes for the opening ceremony and events in the central stadium, where seats go fast and resell at high prices. The horse races, held on the steppe about forty kilometres from the city, and the archery are easier to attend. Book the stadium and accommodation several months ahead.
Can you visit Lake Khuvsgul in winter?
Yes, for well-equipped travellers. The lake freezes over entirely and hosts an ice festival in early March with sled races and sculptures. Temperatures drop well below -20 °C and most lakeside camps are closed, so go through a specialist agency.
Why is Ulaanbaatar's air so polluted in winter?
The ger districts on the outskirts are still largely heated with coal or wood, which creates thick smog during temperature inversions from December to February. If you travel in that season, limit your time in the city and bring filter masks, especially if you have respiratory sensitivities.

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