Visiting Taiwan: itinerary, seasons and things to do

The capital deserves three to four days. Wanhua holds the old temples and Japanese-era shopping streets, Dadaocheng the tea merchants' houses, Xinyi the modern towers. The metro reaches almost everything, including the Beitou hot springs, half an hour from the centre. The Elephant Mountain hike, about twenty minutes of steep steps, gives the classic view over the city at sunset.

An hour by bus or train from Taipei, the former mining villages of Jiufen and Jinguashi cling to the mountainside above the sea. The small Pingxi line serves Shifen and its sky lanterns, as well as a waterfall around forty metres wide. On the coast, Yehliu Geopark shows off rocks sculpted by erosion. Allow two day trips, on weekdays if possible, and pack a raincoat: the north-east is very wet from October to March.

About 2 hours from Taipei by express train, Hualien is the gateway to Taroko Gorge, carved into marble by the Liwu river. The April 2024 earthquake badly damaged the park and several trails remain closed or only partly reopened: check their status on the official website before booking. Further south, the coastal road to Taitung runs past cliffs and the rice fields of the East Rift Valley, best covered over three or four days.

In the centre of the island, Sun Moon Lake is about 1 hour 30 minutes by bus from Taichung high-speed rail station; two nights allow you to circle it by bike and boat. Further south, the Alishan area, reached from Chiayi, is famous for its giant cypress forests and high-mountain oolong tea plantations. Yushan, the highest peak at 3,952 m, requires a permit booked several weeks in advance.

The island's capital until the late 19th century, Tainan keeps the highest density of temples and historic sites in the country, including the remains of the 17th-century Dutch Fort Zeelandia at Anping. It is also the benchmark city for traditional Taiwanese street food, from danzai noodles to beef soup served at dawn. Two days are enough, on foot or by scooter, avoiding the midday heat in summer.

The island's second port, Kaohsiung is about 1 hour 30 minutes from Taipei by high-speed train. The Pier-2 art district, set in old warehouses, Cijin island and Lotus Pond fill one to two days. About 2 hours' drive further south, Kenting National Park offers beaches, reefs and a tropical climate even in winter. Travellers heading on to the Philippines will find direct flights from Kaohsiung airport.

Around fifty minutes by air from Taipei, the Penghu archipelago lines up basalt columns, coral-stone villages and quiet beaches. Off Taitung, Green Island and Orchid Island are reached by ferry: the first for its seaside saltwater hot spring, the second for the culture of the Tao people and their traditional canoes. Sea crossings are often cancelled in bad weather, so keep a spare day, especially from July to October.

Every city has its night market, usually open from late afternoon until midnight. This is where you try oyster omelette, stinky tofu, braised pork buns and bubble tea, born in Taiwan in the 1980s. Spending per stall is modest, but bring cash, as cards are rarely accepted. Travellers used to the markets of South Korea will find a similar atmosphere, with flavours leaning more towards southern Chinese cooking.