Kahului airport sits on the flat isthmus linking the island's two volcanoes: every road starts here, less than an hour from most resort areas. Wailuku, the neighboring county seat, keeps a few historic buildings and opens onto the Iao Valley, about fifteen minutes away. Further south, Maalaea harbor is home to the Maui Ocean Center aquarium and many boat trip departures. Few people stay here, but everyone passes through.
The west coast is the sunniest and has the most hotels, from Kaanapali to Kapalua. Lahaina, a former whaling port and former capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, was destroyed by the wildfire of August 8, 2023, which killed more than one hundred people. Rebuilding is under way and access to the burn zone remains controlled: pass through with respect, without turning the site into a photo backdrop. To the north, Honolua Bay offers snorkeling in summer and big surf in winter.
Sheltered by Haleakala, the south is the driest part of Maui: rain is rare and the sea is often calm in the morning. Kihei is lined with modest-sized lodgings and family beaches, Wailea with resorts linked by a coastal path of about 2.5 km. Beyond, Makena and its large undeveloped beach mark the end of the built-up area. Further on, La Perouse Bay crosses a black lava flow. The wind often picks up in the early afternoon: swim early.
On the slopes of the volcano, roughly between 500 and 1,200 meters above sea level, Upcountry lives to the rhythm of ranches, lavender farms and small distilleries. Makawao still looks like a town of Hawaiian cowboys, the paniolos, with a rodeo over the Fourth of July weekend. Kula, higher up, enjoys cool air and views of both coasts. Below, Paia is a colorful surf village and the gateway to the Road to Hana. Bring a sweater: it is noticeably cooler than by the sea.
Haleakala National Park tops out at 3,055 meters, and the road up from Kahului takes about two hours. For sunrise, vehicle entry between 3 a.m. and 7 a.m. is by reservation only, on top of the park entrance fee. At the summit it is often close to freezing before dawn, with wind: a beanie and a down jacket are not overkill. In the afternoon, the Sliding Sands trail descends into the crater among cinder cones, but climbing back at this altitude is hard work.
The Hana Highway winds for about 80 km along the windward coast, crossing more than fifty one-lane bridges between waterfalls, bamboo groves and ocean viewpoints. Allow a full day for the round trip, leaving before 8 a.m., and a night in Hana if possible to enjoy the east without rushing. Beyond Hana, the Kipahulu District of the national park is home to the Ohe'o pools. It rains a lot here: landslides and occasional closures are possible, and roadside parking is ticketed.
The submerged crater of Molokini, about ten kilometers off the south coast, is reached by boat from Maalaea or Kihei for snorkeling in very clear water, ideally in the morning before the swell. From December to April, peaking from January to March, humpback whales come to calve in the shallow waters between Maui, Lanai and Molokai, protected by a national marine sanctuary. Whale watching trips last about two hours, and you often see them spout from the beach.
