The colonial heart of Batavia, founded by the Dutch East India Company in the early 17th century, centres on Fatahillah Square. The former 1710 city hall houses the Jakarta History Museum, flanked by the Puppet and Ceramics museums. Colourful bicycles can be rented on the spot to ride around the square. Come on a weekday before 10 am: at weekends, crowds and heat make the visit tiring. Jakarta Kota station, terminus of the commuter lines, is five minutes' walk away.
About 1.5 km north of Kota Tua, the old port of Sunda Kelapa still welcomes dozens of pinisi, wooden schooners from Sulawesi and Kalimantan loading timber and cement by hand. It is one of the few ports in the world where this traditional sailing remains a daily affair. The Bahari Museum, housed in 18th-century Company warehouses, tells the maritime history of the archipelago. Allow two hours, ideally early in the morning, and take care on the cluttered quays.
The Chinatown of Glodok lies just south of Kota Tua. In the Petak Sembilan lane, sellers of herbs, dried fish and ritual objects lead to Jin De Yuan temple, founded in the mid-17th century and restored after a fire in 2015. The Santa Maria de Fatima church occupies a former Chinese mansion close by. The district is especially lively during Chinese New Year, between January and February. A morning is enough to explore it on foot, combined with Kota Tua.
Around vast Merdeka Square stand the symbols of the Republic: Monas, a 132 m obelisk topped with a golden flame, the presidential palace and the National Museum. To the northeast, Istiqlal Mosque, the largest in Southeast Asia, faces the neo-Gothic Jakarta Cathedral, a pairing intended as a symbol of religious tolerance. Istiqlal can be visited free of charge with a volunteer guide, outside prayer times, in covering clothes. Allow a full day for the area, and do Monas early in the morning: the lift queue grows quickly.
Designed in the 1910s as a garden city for the colonial administration, Menteng lines up Art Deco villas, shady avenues and small parks. Barack Obama spent part of his childhood here, and the house where the 1945 declaration of independence was read stood in the district. Jalan Jaksa, the old haunt of budget travellers, and the Taman Ismail Marzuki cultural centre, with its art cinema and exhibitions, are also here. Allow two to three hours of strolling in the late afternoon, when the heat eases.
The Thamrin-Sudirman axis and the SCBD business district concentrate office towers, hotels and huge shopping malls, linked by the first metro line opened in 2019. Further south, Kemang and Blok M bring together cafés, bars and a music scene, and Blok M market is known for its vinyl records and Japanese eateries. This is often where visitors stay to use the metro and avoid traffic jams heading north. Evenings start late, rarely before 9 pm, and many venues close during Ramadan.
Off the bay, the Seribu archipelago numbers around a hundred islands. Speedboats leave from Ancol marina and reach the nearest islands in about an hour, the furthest in two hours or more. The water clears beyond the first islands, with snorkelling and small beaches. To the southeast, the Taman Mini Indonesia Indah park showcases the architecture of every province in half a day. Next, the Whoosh high-speed train reaches Bandung in under an hour, a gateway to the rest of the
Indonesian archipelago.