Visit Oaxaca

A colonial city at 1,550 m, markets where tlayudas sizzle on the grill, mezcal distilleries among the agave fields, weaving and pottery villages, and the great city of Monte Albán on its leveled mountaintop: Oaxaca deserves at least five days to be savored without haste.

Why is Oaxaca so appealing?

Oaxaca de Juárez and the Zapotec site of Monte Albán have been listed together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. The city is famous for its food, especially its moles and mezcal, and for the crafts of its central valleys. Its Guelaguetza festival in July and Day of the Dead in early November are among the liveliest in the country.

Oaxaca's must-sees

Zapotec sites, baroque churches, museums and markets, between the city and its valleys.

Templo de Santo Domingo

Baroque church with a plain facade hiding an interior entirely covered in gilding and polychrome stucco, including a carved family tree on the entrance ceiling.

Museo de las Culturas

Set in the former Santo Domingo convent, it traces the region's history and displays the treasure of Tomb 7 at Monte Albán, outstanding Mixtec goldwork.

Jardín Etnobotánico

Garden of cacti, agaves and plants native to the state, laid out behind the convent. It can only be visited on a guided tour at set times.

Monte Albán

Zapotec capital built on a leveled mountain about ten kilometers from the city. Its great plaza, temples and views over three valleys deserve a morning.

Mitla archaeological zone

Zapotec then Mixtec city famous for its friezes of stones fitted without mortar into geometric patterns, unique in Mesoamerica, beside a colonial church.

Árbol del Tule

Montezuma cypress with an extraordinary trunk girth, one of the widest in the world, standing before the church of Santa María del Tule. A quick stop on the Mitla road.

Hierve el Agua

Mineral formations shaped like frozen waterfalls and natural pools perched above a valley. Access is sometimes closed depending on local disputes: check the day before.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Covered market in the center famous for its grill aisle, where you pick tasajo and cecina before eating them with tortillas, onions and chilies.

Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Small museum devoted to traditional textiles from the state and Mexico, with well curated temporary exhibitions and a shop for weaving artisans.

What to see in Oaxaca and its valleys?

The historic center and the Andador

The colonial center follows a grid around the zócalo, lined with arcades and the cathedral. The pedestrian Macedonio Alcalá street, the Andador, links the square to the Santo Domingo convent over about 600 m, past galleries, cafés and designer shops. Facades of green cantera, a local volcanic stone, give the city its distinctive tone. Two days are enough to cover it. Rainy season afternoons, between June and September, often bring a shower around 5 pm: save museums for that time.

Jalatlaco and the old barrios

East of the center, Jalatlaco is one of the city's oldest neighborhoods: cobbled streets, brightly painted low houses and murals, only 10 minutes on foot from the zócalo. It has filled with cafés, small hotels and restaurants, yet stays quiet at night. Further north, the Xochimilco barrio keeps an old colonial aqueduct and weaving workshops. These neighborhoods are the best option to stay somewhere calm without relying on taxis.

Markets and the cuisine of seven moles

Oaxaca is nicknamed the land of seven moles: negro, rojo, coloradito, amarillo, verde, chichilo and manchamantel. At the 20 de Noviembre market, the smoke-filled grill aisle lets you choose your meat before it is cooked on the spot. The nearby Benito Juárez market sells chapulines, drinking chocolate and quesillo. Allow a full morning to taste without rushing. For a working-class atmosphere, the Central de Abastos market is huge: go in the morning and watch your belongings.

The Mitla road and the Tlacolula valley

Highway 190 heading east strings together several stops for a long day: the Tule tree in Santa María del Tule, about ten kilometers out, the Sunday market in Tlacolula, then the Mitla site and its stone mosaics, about 45 km away. The petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, nearly 70 km away, have seen closures linked to local disputes: check the situation before leaving. Going on a Sunday lets you see the Tlacolula market in full swing.

Mezcal country

Most Mexican mezcal is produced in the state of Oaxaca, and Santiago Matatlán, some fifty kilometers away, calls itself its capital. In family palenques, agave hearts roast for several days in pits of hot stones before being crushed by a horse-drawn stone wheel. A visit lasts about an hour, tasting included. Use a driver or an organized tour, as tastings add up quickly. The city also has plenty of mezcal bars to compare espadín, tobalá or tepextate.

Craft villages of the central valleys

Each valley village has its specialty. Teotitlán del Valle weaves wool rugs dyed with natural colors, 30 minutes east. To the south, San Bartolo Coyotepec shapes barro negro pottery, while San Martín Tilcajete and San Antonio Arrazola carve alebrijes, fantastic painted wooden animals. Workshops are visited directly in family homes: buying on site pays artisans better. A day allows you to combine two or three. Indigenous culture is far more present here than on the coast around Tulum.

Guelaguetza and Day of the Dead

Two festivals transform the city. In July, usually on the two Mondays after July 16, the Guelaguetza brings together dances from the state's eight regions in an auditorium on Cerro del Fortín, with parades through the streets. The Day of the Dead, from October 31 to November 2, fills cemeteries, markets and homes with altars decorated with cempasúchil. These are the most sought-after cultural periods of the year in Mexico: book accommodation several months ahead.

Frequently asked questions about Oaxaca

How many days do you need for Oaxaca and its valleys?
Five days make a good balance: two for the city and its markets, one for Monte Albán and the southern craft villages, one for the Mitla road, and one for mezcal or a cooking class. A week lets you add a hike in the Sierra Norte.
Monte Albán or Mitla, which one if you are short on time?
Monte Albán is the more spectacular for its scale and views, and takes half a day from the city. Mitla is smaller but its stone mosaics are unique. If you only have a morning, choose Monte Albán and arrive at opening time to avoid the heat.
Is Hierve el Agua open right now?
The site is run by local communities and has closed several times because of land disputes between villages. The situation changes without notice: ask your hotel or an agency the day before making the two hour drive from Oaxaca.
Should you really try chapulines in Oaxaca?
These grasshoppers toasted with chili and lime are a very common snack, sold by weight in markets and served on tlayudas or guacamole. Their taste is mostly tangy and salty. It is a chance to discover an ancient food tradition of the valleys.
When exactly is the Oaxaca Guelaguetza held?
The two main performances usually take place on the two Mondays following July 16, called lunes del cerro, in the auditorium on Cerro del Fortín. Parades, concerts and markets liven up the city throughout July, with free performances in several villages.
How can you experience the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca respectfully?
Cemeteries such as Xoxocotlán or the Panteón General host family vigils on the nights between October 31 and November 2. Stay discreet, ask before photographing a grave or altar, and avoid flash and inappropriate costumes inside cemeteries.
How do you get to the coast from Oaxaca?
Puerto Escondido and Mazunte can be reached by plane, bus or minibus on winding mountain roads, taking several hours. The Caribbean coast around Cancún is much further: you need to fly, often connecting through Mexico City.
Can you take a cooking class in Oaxaca?
Yes, it is one of the most popular activities. Most classes start with a market visit, then you prepare a mole, tortillas on the comal and a salsa in the molcajete. Allow half a day and book a few days ahead.

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