Visiting Georgia: what to see, when to go and itineraries

At the crossroads of Europe and Asia, Georgia moves within a few hours' drive from the lanes and wooden balconies of Tbilisi to the vineyards of Kakheti, then to the snowy peaks of the Greater Caucasus, where Svan towers watch over high-altitude villages.

Why visit Georgia?

Georgia packs mountains over 5,000 metres, one of the world's oldest winemaking traditions and UNESCO-listed medieval Christian heritage into a small territory. European Union citizens can stay without a visa for up to a year, making it one of the easiest gateways to the Caucasus, on the edge of Asia.

What to discover in Georgia?

Tbilisi and Mtskheta

Tbilisi takes three days to explore, between the old town, its wooden balconies and the sulphur baths beneath brick domes. Narikala Fortress, reached by cable car, overlooks the city and the Kura River. Some twenty kilometres away, Mtskheta, the former capital and a UNESCO site, brings together Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery in half a day. The capital is also the starting point for neighbouring Armenia, with Yerevan about 5 to 6 hours away by road.

Kakheti and qvevri wine

About 2 hours by road east of Tbilisi, Kakheti is the cradle of Georgian wine, made for millennia in buried clay jars called qvevri, a method on UNESCO's intangible heritage list. Sighnaghi overlooks the Alazani Valley, and Telavi is the base for estates and monasteries such as Alaverdi. Two days are enough; the harvest, or rtveli, from mid-September to October, is the best time to share a supra, the Georgian feast led by a tamada.

Kazbegi and the Georgian Military Road

The Georgian Military Road links Tbilisi to Stepantsminda, or Kazbegi, in about 3 hours, passing Ananuri Fortress and the Jvari Pass at over 2,300 metres. Trinity Church, perched at 2,170 metres facing Mount Kazbek, is reached on foot in 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours or by 4x4. Two nights let you add the Juta Valley. The pass can close for several days in winter after heavy snowfall. South Ossetia, west of this road, is formally advised against by France.

Svaneti and the Greater Caucasus

Isolated in the north-west, Svaneti is 3 to 4 hours by road from Zugdidi, or a flight from Tbilisi depending on the weather. Mestia and its medieval defensive towers are the base for hikes, and Ushguli, about 2 hours away on a rough track, is among the highest inhabited villages in Europe, below Mount Shkhara. Upper Svaneti is a UNESCO site. The Mestia to Ushguli trek takes four days, from July to September. Neighbouring Abkhazia is formally advised against and must not be used as a transit route.

Kutaisi, Batumi and the west

Kutaisi, served by low-cost flights from Europe, is about 3 hours 30 minutes by road from Tbilisi. Gelati Monastery, founded in the 12th century and UNESCO-listed, Prometheus Cave and Martvili Canyon combine over two days. On the Black Sea, Batumi mixes seafront, botanical garden and contemporary architecture, about 2 hours 30 minutes from Kutaisi, with a swimming season from June to September. The border with Turkey is about twenty kilometres away.

Cities to visit in Georgia

Featured destinations appear first.
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Not to miss in Georgia

Seven places that show the measure of the country, from the capital to high-altitude villages.

Abanotubani baths

Sulphur baths under brick domes at the foot of Tbilisi's old town, best booked as a private room for an hour.

Narikala Fortress

Fourth-century ramparts above Tbilisi, reached by cable car from Rike Park, with views over the whole old town.

Gergeti Trinity Church

A 14th-century church alone on a ridge facing Kazbek, the iconic image of the Georgian Caucasus, above Stepantsminda.

Ushguli's towers

Medieval stone tower houses clustered below the Shkhara glaciers, in one of Europe's highest inhabited communities.

Gelati Monastery

A medieval complex near Kutaisi known for its mosaics and frescoes, founded by King David the Builder.

Sighnaghi's walls

Ramparts with round towers encircling a small hilltop town, overlooking the Alazani Valley and the distant Caucasus.

Vardzia

A 12th-century cave monastery carved into a cliff in the south of the country, about 4 hours by road from Tbilisi.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?
About 3 hours along the Georgian Military Road, not counting stops at Ananuri and the Gudauri viewpoint. Marshrutkas leave from Didube bus station, and a day trip is possible, but staying overnight lets you see the church at sunrise.
When should you do the Mestia to Ushguli trek?
From early July to mid-September, when the passes are clear of snow and the guesthouses in the stage villages are open. Experienced hikers can do the four-day trek without a guide, returning from Ushguli by 4x4.
What is a Georgian supra?
A traditional feast where dishes pile up on the table and a tamada, the toastmaster, leads a series of toasts to family, homeland or the departed. It is customary to empty your glass after each important toast.
Do you need to speak Russian to travel in Georgia?
No, but it helps: Georgian, with its own alphabet, is the official language, Russian is still understood by many adults and English is clearly spreading among young people and in tourism, especially in Tbilisi and Batumi.
Can you visit Abkhazia or South Ossetia?
No, these two regions are outside the Georgian government's control and the French foreign ministry formally advises against them. Entering them from Russia is also considered illegal by Georgia and may lead to penalties.
Kutaisi or Tbilisi: which airport should you choose?
Kutaisi mainly receives low-cost flights from Europe and is close to Svaneti and Batumi. Tbilisi is more convenient for the capital, Kakheti and Kazbegi. Flying into one and out of the other avoids backtracking.
Can you combine Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan?
Yes, but the border between Armenia and Azerbaijan is closed and its surroundings are advised against: you must go back through Georgia. Azerbaijan has long restricted entry by land, so check the rules before planning an overland journey.

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