Visiting Turkey: when to go, budget and itineraries

The city alone fills several days: Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, Topkapi Palace (closed on Tuesdays), the Grand Bazaar with its roughly 4,000 shops, then a public ferry crossing to the Asian side and the Kadıköy district. Three to four nights suffice for a first visit, more with a Bosphorus cruise or a day trip to the Princes' Islands added.

Fairy chimneys, multi-level underground cities at Derinkuyu and cave hotels make up a unique setting, best seen from a sunrise hot-air balloon (flights cancel if winds are too strong, book weeks ahead in high season). Two to three nights cover the Göreme open-air museum, the hilltop village of Uçhisar and a hike through the quieter Ihlara valley, away from the tour-bus crowds of central Göreme.

Ephesus, one of the best-preserved ancient sites in the Mediterranean with its Library of Celsus and its ancient theatre, is best visited early before the cruise groups arrive from Kuşadası. Nearby, the white travertine terraces of Pamukkale and the wine village of Şirince round out a two to three day loop, a short boat ride from the neighbouring Greek islands for those extending the trip.

Around Antalya and its Ottoman old town of Kaleiçi, the Lycian coast offers coves, sandy beaches like Patara and stretches of the Lycian Way, a marked trail over 500 km long between Fethiye and Antalya. The sunken city of Kekova is reached by boat from Üçağız, and the Aspendos theatre still hosts concerts in summer. Three to four nights make a good base to fan out from.

The administrative capital, often skipped by time-pressed visitors in favour of Istanbul, deserves a day for the Atatürk mausoleum and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, one of the richest Hittite collections in the world. It mainly serves as a stop toward Cappadocia via the high-speed train from Istanbul, roughly a 4-hour journey and a comfortable, scenic alternative to flying for travellers with a little time to spare.

Less travelled by Western visitors, the Trabzon region has a wetter climate, green highland plateaus like Ayder and the Sumela Monastery clinging to a forested cliff, said by tradition to have been founded in the 4th century. A worthwhile extension for travellers who have already seen Istanbul and Cappadocia and have at least two extra days off the beaten track.

Kebabs, mezze, grilled fish on the coast and syrup-soaked pastries like baklava taste just as good in a neighbourhood lokanta, where a full meal often costs under 10 euros, as in a traditional meyhane with raki and shared small plates. A hearty Turkish breakfast of cheeses, olives and jams is worth a slow hour at the table on a holiday morning.