Visiting Kenya: when to go, safaris and itineraries

Just over eight hours by direct flight from Paris, Kenya brings together the great safaris of the Masai Mara, Amboseli's elephants facing Kilimanjaro, the lakes of the Rift Valley and the white-sand beaches of the Indian Ocean around Diani and Watamu.

Why visit Kenya?

Kenya is one of the most accessible safari destinations in Africa: direct flights from Europe, a dense network of parks and experienced guides. Every year from July to October the Masai Mara hosts the great wildebeest migration, and the Swahili coast lets you end the trip on the shores of the Indian Ocean.

What to discover in Kenya?

Nairobi, gateway to the safaris

The capital and main airport, Nairobi deserves one or two nights rather than a quick transit. Nairobi National Park, around ten kilometres from the centre, lets you watch giraffes, rhinos and lions with the city's towers in the background. The Giraffe Centre and the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust elephant orphanage are visited in the morning, the latter by reservation. Traffic is severe: allow an hour to cross the city at rush hour, and use ride-hailing apps after dark.

The Masai Mara and the great migration

In the south-west, about 5 to 6 hours by road or 45 minutes by air from Nairobi, the Masai Mara National Reserve extends the Serengeti of neighbouring Tanzania. From July to October, hundreds of thousands of wildebeest and zebras cross the Mara River, a spectacle that also brings the biggest crowds and the highest rates. Plan at least three nights on site. The private conservancies bordering the reserve limit vehicle numbers and often allow walking and night safaris.

Amboseli and Tsavo, the south below Kilimanjaro

About 4 to 5 hours by road south of Nairobi, Amboseli National Park is known for its large elephant herds standing out against Kilimanjaro, visible mostly early in the morning before the clouds build up. Two nights are enough. Further east, Tsavo West and Tsavo East form one of the country's largest protected areas, crossed by the road and railway to Mombasa: a logical stop to link the safaris with the coast, with elephants turned red by the local soil.

The Rift Valley and its lakes

Two to three hours by road north-west of Nairobi, the Rift Valley lines up lakes with very different characters. Lake Naivasha is explored by boat among hippos, and nearby Hell's Gate is one of the few parks where you can cycle or walk among zebras and giraffes. Lake Nakuru holds a sanctuary for black and white rhinos, along with flamingos whose numbers vary with the water level. Allow two days to combine both lakes on the way to the Masai Mara.

Mount Kenya and the Laikipia plateau

Africa's second-highest peak at 5,199 metres, Mount Kenya can be trekked up to Point Lenana, at 4,985 metres, in 4 to 5 days without mountaineering gear. At the foot of the massif, around Nanyuki, about 3 hours by road from Nairobi, Ol Pejeta Conservancy protects the last two female northern white rhinos and a chimpanzee sanctuary. The Laikipia plateau has many private conservancies: check the French foreign ministry's map before any extension further north.

Mombasa and the Swahili coast

The country's second city, Mombasa is linked to Nairobi by the Madaraka Express train in about 5 hours, a comfortable alternative to the road. Its old town and Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in the late 16th century and UNESCO-listed, take half a day. To the south, Diani Beach stretches for more than ten kilometres of white sand sheltered by a reef, ideal for ending a safari with three or four nights of rest. To the north, Watamu and its marine park suit snorkelling, with calmer seas from October to March.

The north and the Somali border, areas to avoid

The French foreign ministry formally advises against the border areas with Somalia and several northern and north-eastern counties, due to the risk of terrorism and kidnapping. The Lamu archipelago, despite its UNESCO-listed old town, lies within a restricted area: check the latest map before any plans north of Malindi. The classic circuits between Nairobi, the Masai Mara, the Rift Valley, Amboseli, Tsavo and the south coast stay outside these zones. To extend west, Uganda and Rwanda are about an hour and a quarter by air from Nairobi.

Cities to visit in Kenya

Featured destinations appear first.
Coming soon.

Not to miss in Kenya

Nine experiences that make the trip, from the great plains of the south-west to the reefs of the Indian Ocean.

Mara River crossing

Wildebeest and zebras plunging past crocodiles and steep banks, visible from July to October depending on the herds' movements.

Nairobi National Park

A savannah on the capital's doorstep, where giraffes, lions and rhinos roam with the downtown skyline on the horizon.

Sheldrick elephant orphanage

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust cares for orphaned baby elephants, visible during a short morning visit at feeding time, by reservation.

Amboseli's elephants

Large herds crossing Amboseli's swamps with the snow-capped outline of Kilimanjaro behind them at sunrise.

Lake Nakuru sanctuary

A compact Rift Valley park where black and white rhinos are easy to spot, with flamingos and pelicans along the shore.

Hell's Gate by bike

Volcanic gorges and basalt cliffs to explore by bike or on foot among zebras, a few kilometres from Lake Naivasha.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy

A private reserve below Mount Kenya, home to the last two northern white rhinos and rescued chimpanzees.

Fort Jesus, Mombasa

A late 16th-century Portuguese fortress, UNESCO-listed, at the entrance to Mombasa's Swahili old town.

Diani Beach

A long ribbon of palm-fringed white sand sheltered by a reef south of Mombasa, perfect for ending a safari.

Frequently asked questions

When can you see the Mara River crossing?
The herds usually reach the Masai Mara in July and stay until October, but river crossings depend on the rains and follow no schedule. Plan at least three days on site to improve your chances of witnessing one.
How many nights should you spend in the Masai Mara?
Three nights is a good minimum: the drive from Nairobi takes half a day, and game drives are best at dawn and late afternoon. In peak migration season, four nights give you time to wait for a crossing.
Where is the best view of Kilimanjaro in Kenya?
From Amboseli National Park in the south, where the Tanzanian summit towers over the plain about forty kilometres away. It shows itself mostly early in the morning and late in the day, as clouds often hide it around midday.
Is the Madaraka Express worth it between Nairobi and Mombasa?
Yes, if you want to avoid a road busy with lorries: the journey takes about 5 hours, crosses the Tsavo plains where wildlife is sometimes visible, and tickets are booked online a few days ahead, especially for first class.
Does the Kenyan ETA really replace the visa?
Yes, since January 2024 most visitors, including French and other European citizens, must apply for an Electronic Travel Authorisation on the Kenyan government's official portal before boarding. Apply several days ahead and beware of intermediary sites that add extra fees.
Is the yellow fever vaccine mandatory for a safari in Kenya?
It is recommended for most regions of the country, and a certificate may be required if you arrive from a country where the disease circulates. See a travel health clinic at least ten days before departure to check your situation.
Kenya or Botswana for a first safari?
Kenya offers direct flights from Europe, a wider range of budgets and the option to end at the beach. Botswana focuses on remote camps with few vehicles, at a noticeably higher average cost.
Can you visit the Lamu archipelago?
The area is subject to restrictions from the French foreign ministry because of its proximity to the Somali border. Check the travel advice map just before leaving: for now, Diani, Watamu or Mombasa are better choices to discover the Swahili coast.

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