Visit Malawi: the lake, safaris and when to go

Nicknamed the warm heart of Africa, Malawi stretches along a lake almost 600 kilometres long where you swim among colourful fish. Between swims, you track the rhinos of Liwonde, climb the Mulanje massif and cross the grasslands of the Nyika Plateau.

Why travel to Malawi?

Malawi combines a large freshwater lake lined with beaches, national parks where wildlife has been reintroduced and mountains suited to trekking. The country remains little visited, which makes safaris more intimate than in neighbouring Tanzania.

What to discover in Malawi?

The southern lake and the Nankumba Peninsula

The southern tip of Lake Malawi hosts most beach stays. Cape Maclear, about four hours by road from Lilongwe, lies at the heart of Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO site for its hundreds of cichlid species. A mask and snorkel are enough to see them around Thumbi and Mumbo islands, half an hour away by boat. Plan at least three nights, and avoid swimming near reeds, where the risk of bilharzia is higher.

The parks of the Shire Valley

The Shire River, the lake's only outlet, feeds the country's two best wildlife parks. Liwonde, two to three hours from Blantyre, is explored by boat as much as by 4x4: hippos, elephants, and now reintroduced black rhinos, lions and cheetahs. Further south, Majete is once again home to the five iconic large mammals after years of reintroductions. Two nights per park are enough; the end of the dry season, September to November, gathers animals around water.

Mount Mulanje, Zomba and the tea estates

The southeast of the country is hikers' territory. The Mulanje massif, about an hour and a half from Blantyre, peaks at Sapitwa at just over 3,000 metres; a network of huts allows treks of two to five days with a guide and porters. Around it, the tea estates of Thyolo and Mulanje can be visited on a day trip. The Zomba Plateau, the former colonial capital, offers shorter walks through forests, waterfalls and viewpoints over the valley.

The north: Nyika, Nkhata Bay and Likoma

The less visited north needs at least a week. The Nyika Plateau, above 2,000 metres, unfolds grasslands where you meet zebras and roan antelopes on foot, on horseback or by mountain bike, with cool nights all year. On the shore, Nkhata Bay draws independent travellers for its coves and kayaking. Offshore, Likoma Island and its vast Anglican cathedral are reached by the Ilala ferry, whose schedule often changes, or by small plane.

Lilongwe, Blantyre and the country's roads

The two main cities mostly serve as gateways. Lilongwe, the capital, receives most international flights, often via Addis Ababa, Nairobi or Johannesburg; Blantyre, the economic hub in the south, is about five hours away by road. Distances are short but journeys slow: allow an average of 50 to 60 km/h. A two-week circuit easily links the southern lake, the parks and Mulanje, and is often extended into Zambia and South Luangwa National Park.

Cities to visit in Malawi

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Unmissable in Malawi

Six experiences that sum up the country, from the lake to the peaks.

Snorkelling at Cape Maclear

Snorkel among the lake's colourful cichlids in clear, warm water, straight from the beach or on a boat trip to the nearby islets.

Liwonde rhinos

A boat safari on the Shire followed by a game drive in search of black rhinos, protected by reinforced monitoring since their return.

Climbing Sapitwa

The highest point of the Mulanje massif, reached after a demanding climb among granite boulders, with a vast view over the southern plains.

St Peter's Cathedral, Likoma

An imposing Anglican building from the early twentieth century on a small lake island, striking for its size in such a remote setting.

Nyika zebras

The plateau's highland grasslands are explored on foot or horseback among zebras, in scenery that recalls Scotland more than Africa.

Senga Bay sunsets

An easy beach to reach from Lilongwe, popular for evenings facing the lake and fishermen's canoes coming home at dusk.

Frequently asked questions about Malawi

Can you swim in Lake Malawi despite bilharzia?
Swimming is very common, but the risk exists, especially in shallow water near reeds and inhabited areas. Prefer windy beaches and deep water, and get tested a few weeks after your return if you swam a lot.
Cape Maclear or Nkhata Bay: which shore to choose?
Cape Maclear, in the south, is easier to reach from Lilongwe and lies within the national park, ideal for snorkelling. Nkhata Bay, in the north, has a more bohemian feel and rocky coves suited to kayaking. With ten days or more, you can combine both.
Liwonde or Majete for a safari in Malawi?
Liwonde offers boat safaris on the Shire and good chances of seeing elephants and hippos. Majete, closer to Blantyre, is home to the five iconic large mammals but its vegetation is denser. With four days, do both.
How many days does it take to climb Mount Mulanje?
A two or three day loop is enough for the plateau and its huts, four or five days to include Sapitwa without rushing. A licensed guide is advised, as mist can fall quickly. The dry months, May to October, are the safest.
Can Malawi be combined with a safari in Zambia?
Yes, it is the most common pairing: South Luangwa National Park is only a few hours by road from the border near Mchinji, and many travellers go there before ending at the lake. Plan for the entry rules of both countries.
How do you get to Likoma Island?
The Ilala ferry serves the lake ports on a weekly rhythm, but its schedule varies and delays are common. Chartered light aircraft also fly to the island. Build a two-day margin into your itinerary if you rely on the boat.
When can you see the most wildlife in Malawi's parks?
From September to November, vegetation is dry and animals gather near the Shire River. It is very hot then, sometimes above 35 °C. From December to April, rains make some tracks impassable, especially in the north.

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