Travel to Panama: things to do, when to go and itinerary

From the canal locks to the colonial lanes of Casco Viejo, from the sandy Guna islets to coffee farms clinging to Barú volcano, Panama packs the Pacific, the Caribbean and tropical forest into a narrow country that is easy to cover in two weeks.

Why visit Panama?

Panama is the isthmus closing off Central America to the south-east and separating the Atlantic from the Pacific, crossed since 1914 by one of the great engineering works of the twentieth century. A single trip combines a modern capital with a UNESCO-listed historic centre, archipelagos on two oceans and mountain forests, with the US dollar in everyday use.

What to discover in Panama?

Panama City and Casco Viejo

The capital pairs a skyline of towers, the Amador Causeway reaching into the Pacific and Casco Viejo, a colonial district UNESCO-listed together with the ruins of Panamá Viejo, the first city founded in 1519. Two to three nights are enough for its restored squares, rooftop bars and the Biomuseo designed by Frank Gehry. Metro line 1 links the centre to the Albrook bus terminal in about twenty minutes.

The canal zone and Gatún Lake

About 80 km long, the canal is best first seen at the Miraflores locks, 20 minutes from the centre, where the visitor centre lets you watch ships pass up close: go in the morning, when transits are most frequent. Man-made Gatún Lake and Soberanía National Park, less than an hour away, are explored by boat or on foot along Pipeline Road, famed for birdwatching. One day covers the essentials.

Guna Yala and the San Blas islands

On the Caribbean coast, the autonomous territory of Guna Yala counts several hundred islets, only about fifty of them inhabited. The Guna run tourism themselves: simple cabins, entry fees and rules specific to each island. Access is by a mountain road of about 2.5 hours from the capital, then by boat. Two or three nights are ideal, as long as you accept basic comfort and meals of fish and rice.

Bocas del Toro, the Caribbean archipelago

Near the border with Costa Rica, the Bocas del Toro archipelago mixes a wooden stilt town on Isla Colón, the beaches of Bastimentos and mangroves. It is an hour's flight from the capital. Allow three to four nights for Starfish Beach, Isla Bastimentos marine park and snorkelling at Cayo Zapatilla. Here the dry season does not match the Pacific one: September and October are often the sunniest months.

Chiriquí, Boquete and Barú volcano

In the west, Chiriquí province climbs to Barú volcano, the country's highest point at 3,474 m. Boquete, at about 1,200 m, lives off coffee, including the Geisha variety, and offers farm tours, the Quetzal Trail and hanging bridges. The night climb of Barú, to see both oceans at sunrise on a clear day, takes six to eight hours of ascent. The region is reached by a flight of about an hour to David.

The Pacific, Coiba and the Pearl Islands

On the Pacific side, UNESCO-listed Coiba National Park is one of the best diving spots in the region, 1.5 hours by boat from Santa Catalina. The Pearl Islands, including Contadora, are about 1.5 hours by ferry from the capital. From July to October, humpback whales come here to breed. To the east, Darién province and the Colombian border are advised against by the French foreign ministry: they belong on no tourist itinerary.

Cities to visit in Panama

Featured destinations appear first.
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Must-sees in Panama

Eight sites that sum up a country straddling two oceans.

Miraflores Locks

Visitor centre with viewing terraces to watch cargo ships move through the locks, twenty minutes from the centre of the capital.

Plaza de Francia

Esplanade at the tip of Casco Viejo, dedicated to the French pioneers of the canal, with views of the bay and skyline.

Panamá Viejo Ruins

Remains of the first Spanish city on the Pacific, burned in 1671, whose cathedral tower can still be climbed.

Pipeline Road

Forest track in Soberanía park, one of the most renowned birdwatching sites in the Americas, under an hour from the capital.

Cayo Zapatilla

Two uninhabited islets in Bastimentos marine park, fringed with white beaches and reefs ideal for snorkelling.

Portobelo Fortifications

UNESCO-listed Spanish forts on the Caribbean coast that once protected the gold convoys bound for Europe.

Biomuseo

Colourful museum by Frank Gehry on the Amador Causeway, devoted to the biodiversity born from the formation of the isthmus.

Quetzal Trail

Hike through the cloud forest of Barú volcano between Boquete and Cerro Punta, where the resplendent quetzal can sometimes be spotted.

Frequently asked questions

Can you see a ship cross the Panama Canal in half a day?
Yes. The Miraflores visitor centre is 20 minutes from downtown and ship transits are frequent in the morning. Half a day is enough. The Agua Clara locks, on the Caribbean side, show the new expanded locks opened in 2016.
Do you need an agency to visit the San Blas islands?
It is the simplest option: packages include 4x4 transport from the capital, the boat, a stay with Guna hosts and meals. The Guna control access and fees, and organising it independently remains complicated without local contacts.
Can you combine Bocas del Toro with Costa Rica?
Yes, the Sixaola-Guabito border crossing is about an hour's drive from Almirante, the departure port for Bocas. Shuttles link Bocas to Puerto Viejo or San José. Exit and entry formalities are done on foot across the border bridge.
Can you tour the coffee farms of Boquete?
Several farms around Boquete offer two to three hour tours, from picking to roasting, with a tasting. The harvest runs roughly from November to March. The Geisha variety grown on the slopes of Barú ranks among the most sought-after coffees in the world.
Is Panama suited to a trip without a car?
Yes, thanks to domestic flights to Bocas del Toro and David and long-distance buses from the Albrook terminal. A car becomes useful for the Azuero peninsula and the Pacific coast. For San Blas, it is better to leave transport to a local operator.
Where can you see whales in Panama?
Humpback whales visit the Pacific coast from July to October, peaking in August and September. The Pearl Islands, reached by ferry from the capital, and Coiba park are the most reliable areas to watch them on a boat trip.
Should you buy a Panama hat in Panama?
The famous toquilla straw hat is actually made in Ecuador; it owes its name to the canal workers who made it popular. In Panama, the traditional hat is the sombrero pintao, woven from plant fibres, notably in the Coclé region.

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