Visit Samoa: Upolu, Savai'i and itinerary

In the heart of the South Pacific, Samoa pairs two large volcanic islands, Upolu and Savai'i, with a living Polynesian culture. Turquoise lagoons, forest waterfalls and nights in beachfront fale make for a slow journey, shaped by village life and Sundays at church.

Why travel to Samoa?

Samoa is one of the few countries in Oceania where traditional culture, fa'a Samoa, still structures everyday village life. Visitors come for uncrowded beaches, volcanic sites and the experience of fale, huts open to the lagoon. The country is easy to explore by rental car across two islands linked by ferry.

What to discover in Samoa?

Apia and northern Upolu

The small capital can be seen in a day: Maketi Fou market, the Immaculate Conception cathedral on the waterfront, and above all Villa Vailima, Robert Louis Stevenson's last home, ten minutes from the centre. A trail of about 45 minutes leads to his tomb at the top of Mount Vaea. Faleolo airport lies about 40 kilometres west, allow 45 minutes to an hour by road. Two nights in Apia are enough before heading to the coast.

The south and south-east coast of Upolu

This is where the country's best-known images come from. Lalomanu beach, at the eastern tip, lines up fale facing a sheltered lagoon, about 1 hour 30 by road from Apia. The south coast strings together natural pools, waterfalls and traditional villages, all less than an hour apart. Allow three to four nights to enjoy it without rushing. Many sites belong to villages: an entry fee of a few tala is charged at each stop.

Savai'i, the big volcanic island

Larger and less populated than Upolu, Savai'i is reached by ferry from Mulifanua, on Upolu's western tip, in just over an hour. A loop of the island covers about 180 kilometres of coastal road: allow three to four days. In the north, the Saleaula lava fields recall the early 20th-century eruption that buried entire villages. To the west, Falealupo point offers a rainforest canopy walkway and sunsets over the ocean, about two hours by road from Salelologa.

Fa'a Samoa culture and village life

The Samoan way of life rests on the extended family and village chiefs, the matai. On Sundays, almost everything closes and villages head to church: do your shopping on Saturday. Each evening, a short prayer period called sa can halt traffic in some villages for about ten minutes. A fiafia night, with dancing and fire knife performances, is held at most hotels, often once a week.

Combining Samoa with the South Pacific

International flights arrive mainly from Auckland, in New Zealand, about four hours away, as well as from Nadi in Fiji and from Australia. Samoa combines naturally with neighbouring Tonga for a Polynesian circuit of two to three weeks. Mind the date line: since late 2011, Samoa sits on the same side as New Zealand, which can shift your bookings by a day.

Cities to visit in Samoa

Featured destinations appear first.
Coming soon.

Not to miss in Samoa

Six sites that sum up the volcanic and marine diversity of the two islands.

To Sua Ocean Trench

A natural pool around 30 metres deep, carved into lava at Lotofaga and reached by a long wooden ladder.

Lalomanu beach

A long white-sand beach at Upolu's eastern tip, lined with traditional fale and a calm lagoon ideal for snorkelling.

Villa Vailima

Robert Louis Stevenson's home in the hills above Apia, now a museum tracing the Scottish writer's final years.

Alofaaga blowholes

Sea geysers on Savai'i's south coast near Taga, where waves shoot water several tens of metres into the air.

Piula cave pool

A freshwater pool beneath a Methodist church on Upolu's north coast, where you swim in a cool volcanic cavity.

Papapapaitai Falls

A waterfall of around 100 metres plunging into a wooded gorge, visible from the cross-island road over Upolu.

Frequently asked questions

Do you need to book to go down into To Sua Ocean Trench?
No, you pay at the entrance to the site, run by the family that owns the land. The ladder is steep and slippery: come at high tide for a fuller pool, and avoid going on a Sunday.
How many days should you spend on Savai'i?
Three to four days let you loop the island without rushing, taking in the Alofaaga blowholes, the Saleaula lava fields and a night in a fale. A single day trip from Upolu is possible but very frustrating.
What is a fale and can you sleep in one?
It is a traditional Samoan hut open on the sides, with a thatched roof. On beaches such as Lalomanu, many villages rent them out for the night, often with dinner and breakfast included. Comfort is basic: mosquito net and shared bathrooms.
Why did Samoa skip a day in 2011?
29 December 2011 was followed directly by 31 December: the country switched sides of the date line to align with New Zealand and Australia, its main trading partners. Samoa has since been among the first to celebrate the New Year.
Can you combine Samoa and American Samoa?
Yes, short flights link Apia to Pago Pago, but American Samoa is a United States territory with its own entry requirements. Mind the time difference too: it sits on the other side of the date line, a full day apart.
Which island should you choose for a first stay in Samoa?
Upolu has the airport, the capital and the most accessible sites, ideal for a week. With ten days or more, add Savai'i for its even slower pace and volcanic landscapes.

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