A red-brick dome towering over the rooftops, bridges across the Arno, squares where the Renaissance took shape and olive-clad hills twenty minutes from the centre: Florence is best explored on foot. Three days cover the essentials, one or two more open up Tuscany.
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Why visit Florence?
Florence is where the Italian Renaissance was invented, under Medici patronage, and its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. The Uffizi, the Accademia and Palazzo Pitti hold one of the densest concentrations of art on the planet, within an area you can cross on foot in half an hour.
Florence's must-sees
Renaissance landmarks and museums, nearly all within fifteen minutes' walk of one another.
Brunelleschi's Dome
The largest masonry dome ever built, completed in the 15th century without centring. Its 463 steps lead to the top, between the two shells, beneath the Last Judgement frescoes.
Giotto's Bell Tower
A Gothic bell tower clad in white, green and pink marble next to the cathedral. Its 414 steps offer the best view of the dome itself, usually with a shorter queue.
Baptistery of St John
A Romanesque octagon facing the cathedral, famous for its bronze doors including Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise. The originals are kept in the Opera del Duomo Museum.
Uffizi Gallery
A major collection of Italian painting, from Giotto to Caravaggio, with Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera. Allow at least three hours. Closed on Mondays.
Michelangelo's David
The original marble statue, over five metres tall, stands in the Galleria dell'Accademia, at the end of a hall lined with the sculptor's unfinished Prisoners.
Ponte Vecchio
The only Florentine bridge spared in 1944, lined with goldsmiths' shops since the late 16th century. The Vasari Corridor runs above it, linking Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti.
Palazzo Vecchio
The town hall since the Middle Ages, crowned by a crenellated tower. The Hall of the Five Hundred and the Medici apartments are open, as is the tower's walkway.
Boboli Gardens
A large terraced Italian garden behind Palazzo Pitti, with grottoes, fountains, statues and cypress avenues. A green, shaded escape for hot afternoons.
Piazzale Michelangelo
A panoramic terrace on the left bank, adorned with a bronze copy of the David. The view takes in the dome, Palazzo Vecchio and the bridges over the Arno, ideal at sunset.
Basilica of Santa Croce
A large Franciscan church holding the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli, a cenotaph to Dante and chapels painted by Giotto, including the Bardi Chapel.
Medici Chapels
The dynasty's mausoleum at San Lorenzo: the Chapel of the Princes clad in semi-precious stone and Michelangelo's New Sacristy, with the allegories of Day, Night, Dawn and Dusk.
What to see in Florence, neighbourhood by neighbourhood?
The historic heart, from the Duomo to the Signoria
Between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, Via dei Calzaiuoli runs as a straight pedestrian line of about 500 metres: it is the axis around which every visit revolves. The cathedral, its bell tower and the baptistery fill the first square, Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi, an open-air sculpture gallery, the second. The Uffizi then stretch down to the Arno. Allow a full day for this area alone, booking the dome climb early in the morning, before the heat and the queues set in.
San Lorenzo and San Marco, the Medici quarter
North of the Duomo, San Lorenzo was the Medici parish: their basilica and funerary chapels, including the New Sacristy carved by Michelangelo, mark its centre. Right next door, the Mercato Centrale, an iron and glass hall from 1874, sells tripe, cured meats and pecorino on the ground floor and houses food counters upstairs. Five minutes further, Piazza San Marco leads to the Accademia and to the convent where Fra Angelico painted the monks' cells. Half a day is enough, provided you have booked the Accademia.
Santa Croce and Sant'Ambrogio
To the east, the Basilica of Santa Croce and its large square anchor a more working-class area, where the crowds thin out quickly. Beyond it, Sant'Ambrogio is built around its covered market, used by Florentines from Monday to Saturday morning and far cheaper than the Mercato Centrale. The trattorias of Via dei Macci and small leather and furniture restoration workshops give a feel for the lived-in city. Plan two to three hours combining the basilica, the market and lunch in the area.
The Oltrarno, Santo Spirito and San Frediano
On the left bank of the Arno, the Oltrarno remains the artisans' district: gilders, framers, violin makers and restorers still keep shopfronts here. Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens fill its southern part, then Piazza Santo Spirito, in front of Brunelleschi's church, fills with terraces every evening. San Frediano, further west, lines up wine bars and local favourites. It is the best area for dinner after a day of museums, ten minutes on foot from the Ponte Vecchio, and a quieter base to stay in.
San Niccolò, the hills and Fiesole
From the San Niccolò gate, a ramp of steps climbs in about fifteen minutes to Piazzale Michelangelo, then on to San Miniato al Monte, one of the finest examples of Tuscan Romanesque. The sunset panorama justifies the effort. To the north, Fiesole looks down on the city from its hill: bus 7 climbs there in about thirty minutes from the centre. It has a Roman theatre and an Etruscan archaeological site, with a view over the whole Arno valley. Half a day is enough for Fiesole.
Seasons, crowds and bookings
July and August are the months to avoid if you can: the heat often tops 35 °C, queues grow longer and the air stays heavy in the narrow streets. April, May, late September and October offer the best balance. Winter, outside the holidays, is calm and bright. Whatever the season, book the Uffizi, the Accademia and the dome online several days ahead, several weeks between Easter and October. The main local festivals are the Scoppio del Carro on Easter Sunday and the calcio storico in June.
Florence as a base in Tuscany
Santa Maria Novella station makes Florence the best base for day trips: Pisa is about an hour away by regional train, Lucca a little more, Bologna 35 minutes by high-speed train. For Siena, the direct bus, about an hour and a quarter, is more practical than the train. The Chianti hills begin at the city gates and are explored by car or on a tour. Allow five days to combine Florence with two day trips, before heading on to Rome, an hour and a half by train, or elsewhere in Italy.
Frequently asked questions about Florence
How long does it take to visit the Uffizi?
At least three hours for a careful tour of the main rooms, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Michelangelo and Caravaggio. A full half-day is not too much. Book an opening slot online and take a break at the terrace café, which overlooks Palazzo Vecchio.
Dome or Giotto's Bell Tower: which one to climb?
The dome offers the most spectacular experience, passing above the interior frescoes and between the two shells, but it books up far in advance. The bell tower, slightly lower, is often easier to get into and above all gives you the view of the dome itself. Both have over 400 steps.
Do you need to book to see the David at the Accademia?
Yes, it is strongly advised from April to October: the queue without a booking often exceeds an hour. The museum is closed on Mondays. The visit itself takes about an hour, including the musical instruments room and Michelangelo's unfinished Prisoners.
Can you do Pisa and Florence on the same day?
Yes, Pisa is only an hour away by regional train and its Square of Miracles takes three to four hours. It is, however, one day less in Florence: if you are staying under three days, keep Pisa for your arrival or departure day through its airport.
Where to stay in Florence away from tourist noise?
The Oltrarno, between Santo Spirito and San Frediano, and the Sant'Ambrogio area offer a more residential setting, ten to fifteen minutes on foot from the major museums. Avoid the streets around the Duomo and the station if you are a light sleeper.
What is bistecca alla fiorentina and where to try it?
It is a thick T-bone steak grilled over wood, served rare and priced by weight, often starting at around a kilo for two. Traditional trattorias in Santa Croce and the Oltrarno serve it. For something simpler, the lampredotto sandwich, made with tripe, is the local street food.
What happens at the Scoppio del Carro at Easter?
On Easter Sunday, a cart loaded with fireworks, pulled by oxen, is set up between the cathedral and the baptistery. A mechanical dove, launched from the altar, sets it alight in the late morning. Arrive early in the square, the crowd is very dense.
Is the Vasari Corridor open to visitors?
Yes, this raised passage built for the Medici, linking Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti above the Ponte Vecchio, has reopened to the public after lengthy works. Access is by reservation, as an add-on to the Uffizi ticket, with a limited number of places.
Are the Boboli Gardens worth it in high summer?
Yes, provided you go in the morning: the paths climb steeply and shade is not everywhere. The ticket is separate from Palazzo Pitti's. From the top, near the Porcelain Museum, the view over the countryside to the south is one of the finest in the city.
Is Florence enjoyable with children?
Yes if you pace the museums: Palazzo Vecchio offers secret passage tours, the Galileo Museum shows telescopes and scientific instruments, and the Boboli Gardens offer space to run around. Skip the dome climb with young children, as it is long and narrow.
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