Visit Koh Phangan

A world-famous party on a single beach, but also northern bays reached by boat, jungle laced with waterfalls, west coast sunsets and yoga centres: Koh Phangan changes completely depending on where you drop your bag, and deserves at least four nights.

Why go to Koh Phangan?

Koh Phangan is known for the Haad Rin Full Moon Party, held around every full moon, but most of the island is rural, forested and quiet. People also come for the northern beaches, hiking and wellness on the west coast. It lies about 30 minutes by boat from Koh Samui.

Koh Phangan's must-sees

Party beaches or solitary ones, royal waterfalls and viewpoints, spread along every coast of the island.

Full Moon Party

Night-time party on Haad Rin Nok beach around every full moon, with music stages all along the sand until sunrise.

Bottle Beach

Secluded northern bay ringed by forested hills, mostly reached by long-tail from Chaloklum for a quiet day of swimming.

Than Sadet waterfall

Series of pools and boulders in the eastern jungle, where several Thai kings carved their initials during their visits.

Koh Ma sandbar

Strip of sand linking Mae Haad beach to a wooded islet, with a reef within swimming distance for snorkelling.

Thong Sala market

The port's night market, open every evening, where you eat southern Thai dishes cheaply, joined on Saturdays by a pedestrian street.

Khao Ra summit

The island's highest point, reached by a jungle trail with a local guide, offering views of Koh Samui and the Ang Thong archipelago.

Wat Phu Khao Noi

The island's oldest temple, set on a hill near Thong Sala, with a white stupa and an open view over the west coast.

What to see on Koh Phangan, coast by coast?

Haad Rin, the south-east tip

The Haad Rin peninsula brings together two back-to-back beaches: Haad Rin Nok, known as Sunrise, where the Full Moon Party takes place, and Haad Rin Nai on the sunset side, five minutes' walk away. On full moon nights, several thousand people pack the beach and room prices rise sharply, often with a minimum stay. The rest of the month the area is calmer. If you come for the party, book two or three weeks ahead and sleep in Haad Rin itself, as the roads are dangerous at night.

Thong Sala and the west coast

Thong Sala, the main port, gathers banks, supermarkets and scooter rentals. Its night market opens every evening, and the Saturday Walking Street spreads over several streets. In the north-west, the village of Srithanu specialises in yoga, meditation and vegetarian food, with drop-in classes or retreats of one to four weeks. The beaches of Haad Yao and Haad Salad, 20 minutes' drive from the port, offer the island's most reliable sunsets from February to September.

The northern bays: Chaloklum and Bottle Beach

In the north, the fishing village of Chaloklum remains low-key and is the starting point for Bottle Beach, or Haad Khuat, a secluded bay reached by long-tail in about fifteen minutes. A steep track also exists but is not advisable for inexperienced scooter riders. Further west, the islet of Koh Ma is linked to Mae Haad beach by a sandbar exposed at low tide in the dry season, with good snorkelling on the reef. Plan two to three nights on this coast to make the most of it.

Thong Nai Pan and the north-east coast

The twin bays of Thong Nai Pan Noi and Thong Nai Pan Yai, in the north-east, are among the island's finest, with calm water from February to September. The paved road linking them to Thong Sala is winding, allow about 40 minutes by car or pick-up taxi. Accommodation ranges from simple bungalows to upscale resorts, and the mood suits families. It is a good choice for a restful week far from Haad Rin.

The interior, waterfalls and getting there

The jungle-covered interior peaks at Khao Ra, just over 600 metres, reached on a half-day guided hike. Than Sadet waterfall, on the east coast, bears inscriptions left by several Thai kings, including Rama V. To reach the island, fly from Bangkok to Koh Samui then take a 30-minute boat, or travel by train or bus to Surat Thani. Koh Phangan pairs well with the mountainous north around Chiang Mai on a two to three week trip to Thailand.

Frequently asked questions about Koh Phangan

Can you enjoy Koh Phangan without going to the Full Moon Party?
Yes, and most travellers do. The party only concerns one beach and a few nights a month. Choose the north or west coast, and simply avoid full moon dates if you want normal prices on boats from Samui.
How do you get to Bottle Beach from Thong Sala?
Take a pick-up taxi to Chaloklum, about 25 minutes, then a long-tail to the bay, around fifteen minutes. Agree the return time with the boatman. The direct track is best left to 4x4s and seasoned riders.
Is Srithanu a good place for a one-week yoga retreat?
Yes, several Srithanu centres offer one-week programmes with accommodation, as well as drop-in classes. Compare teachers' training and recent reviews. February to August offers the driest conditions for practising outdoors.
How many nights should you plan in Haad Rin for the Full Moon?
Two to three nights around the date, especially as many places impose that minimum. Arrive the day before to avoid packed boats from Samui, and leave two days after, when shuttles are back to their normal pace.
Koh Phangan, Koh Samui or Koh Tao for a first trip?
Koh Samui for comfort and the airport, Koh Tao for diving, Koh Phangan for variety between partying, nature and yoga. With ten days, link all three heading north, island to island, without returning to the mainland.

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