Visit Recife

Bridges spanning the Capibaribe, the colourful façades of Recife Antigo, frevo setting the streets dancing at Carnival and, a few kilometres away, the baroque hills of Olinda: Recife takes three days to discover, before heading off to the natural pools of Porto de Galinhas.

Why visit Recife?

Recife is one of Brazil's oldest cities and, from 1630 to 1654, was the centre of the Dutch colony in the Northeast. Together with UNESCO-listed Olinda, it is one of the country's great cultural hubs and the birthplace of frevo, inscribed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Its airport also serves the Fernando de Noronha archipelago.

Recife highlights

Art, music and Dutch heritage: six places that define Recife's identity.

Instituto Ricardo Brennand

A neo-Gothic castle set in gardens, housing an arms collection, tapestries and the largest group of paintings by Frans Post, the artist of the Dutch period.

Oficina Brennand

A former brickworks turned studio-museum by ceramicist Francisco Brennand, filled with hundreds of strange sculptures in a tropical park.

Paço do Frevo

A living museum devoted to frevo, the dance and music born in Recife, with costumes, colourful umbrellas, exhibitions and introductory classes open to all.

Golden Chapel

The chapel of the Franciscan Third Order of Santo Antônio, entirely lined with carved and gilded wood, among Brazil's baroque masterpieces.

Marco Zero

The city's founding square facing the ocean, with a view across the water to Brennand's sculpture park and crystal tower.

Alto da Sé in Olinda

A viewpoint at the top of Olinda, near the cathedral, where tapioca stalls face a panorama over church towers and Recife's skyline.

What to see in and around Recife?

Recife Antigo, the historic island

The old quarter sits on an island at the mouth of the rivers. Around Marco Zero, Rua do Bom Jesus lines up colourful façades and remains of the Dutch period, including the first synagogue in the Americas, now a museum. On Sunday afternoons the street goes pedestrian and hosts a crafts fair. Allow a day combined with the Paço do Frevo and a boat crossing to the Brennand sculpture park. The district empties on weekday evenings: head back by ride-hailing.

Santo Antônio and São José

Across the Maurício de Nassau bridge, these two commercial districts form Recife's working-class centre. Here you will find the Golden Chapel of the Franciscan convent, one of the finest baroque interiors in the Northeast, the Mercado de São José, an 1875 iron market hall, and the Casa da Cultura, a former prison whose cells are now crafts shops. Visit on weekday mornings, when the markets are liveliest, and keep an eye on your belongings in the crowds.

Boa Viagem, the city beach

Stretching for about 7 km, Boa Viagem beach holds most of the hotels and is 10 minutes by ride-hailing from the airport. At low tide, the reefs form pools where you can cool off close to shore. But since 1992, the area has seen shark attacks: signs mark the risk zones. Never swim beyond the reefs, at high tide, or at dawn or dusk. For proper swimming, head instead to the beaches in the south of the state.

Olinda, the upper town

About 7 km north, Olinda spreads baroque churches, convents and multicoloured houses across its hills, UNESCO-listed since 1982. Half a day is enough to climb to Alto da Sé, a viewpoint over Recife and the ocean, then wander down past artists' studios. Preferably hire a city-accredited guide rather than those who approach you in the street. At Carnival, giant puppets several metres tall parade through the steep lanes: stay in Olinda or Recife and book months in advance.

Porto de Galinhas and the south coast

About 60 km south, an hour by road, Porto de Galinhas is Pernambuco's flagship trip: at low tide, jangadas take visitors to natural pools of clear water among the reefs. Check the tide tables: outings only run when tides are low enough, often a few days a week. Further south, Carneiros and its beachside chapel deserve a night. From Recife, flights of about an hour reach Fernando de Noronha, another gem of Brazil.

Recife FAQ

Can you swim at Boa Viagem despite the sharks?
Yes, but only in the reef-sheltered pools, at low tide and close to shore. Recorded attacks happened beyond the reefs or at high tide. Do not surf, do not swim out, and avoid dawn and dusk, as the beach signs advise.
Is it better to stay in Recife or Olinda?
Boa Viagem in Recife offers the most hotels, the beach and proximity to the airport. Olinda appeals with boutique pousadas and quiet evenings, but is 30 to 45 minutes from Recife's districts. A good compromise: two nights in Olinda, then Boa Viagem.
What is the Galo da Madrugada?
It is a Carnival bloco founded in 1978 that parades on Saturday morning in central Recife, behind a giant rooster set up on a bridge. It is considered one of the largest Carnival gatherings in the world. Arrive early, travel light and leave valuables behind.
How much time for Porto de Galinhas?
A day trip from Recife is possible, an hour away by road. But to be sure of a low tide suitable for the natural pools, two or three nights there are more comfortable, with a detour to Carneiros.
What is bolo de rolo?
This rolled cake of very thin layers filled with guava paste is a Pernambuco speciality, recognised as part of the state's cultural heritage. It is sold in bakeries and markets, along with cartola, a dessert of fried banana, cheese and cinnamon.
How do you get from Recife to Fernando de Noronha?
Daily flights of about an hour link Recife to the archipelago. On arrival, an environmental preservation fee per day of stay and a marine national park ticket are compulsory. As visitor numbers are limited, book flights and accommodation well in advance.

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