Visit Sienne

A gently sloping square laid out like a fan, a brick tower towering above it, a cathedral striped in black and white marble and seventeen districts competing in the Palio: Siena has kept its medieval face intact. One day is enough to discover it, one night lets you enjoy it empty.

Why spend more than a few hours in Siena?

Siena is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, and its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Most visitors spend a few hours there from Florence, but a night in town lets you see Piazza del Campo in peace and then explore Chianti and the Val d'Orcia.

Siena's must-sees

Seven visits between the cathedral and the Campo, all within ten minutes' walk of each other.

Siena Cathedral

A carved Gothic facade, an interior striped in black and white marble and an inlaid marble floor, uncovered only a few weeks a year to protect it.

Piccolomini Library

A hall next to the cathedral covered in vividly coloured frescoes by Pinturicchio, telling the life of Pope Pius II, a local son. Included in the cathedral ticket.

The Facciatone

The unfinished facade of an enlarged cathedral abandoned after the plague of 1348. A narrow staircase from the cathedral museum leads to its top, facing the Campo.

Torre del Mangia

A 14th-century brick tower towering over the Campo. About 400 steps lead to the top loggia, with views stretching to the Montagnola hills.

Museo Civico

Inside Palazzo Pubblico, the Sala della Pace holds Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Allegory of Good and Bad Government, and the Sala del Mappamondo Simone Martini's Maestà.

Santa Maria della Scala

A hospital for nearly a thousand years, opposite the cathedral, now a museum. The Pellegrinaio, the pilgrims' hall, is covered in 15th-century frescoes of hospital life.

National Picture Gallery

In a Gothic palace, the finest collection of gold-ground Sienese primitives, from Duccio to the Lorenzetti brothers. Often quiet, ideal to escape the crowds.

What to see in Siena, terzo by terzo?

The Terzo di Città, around the cathedral

The oldest of the three historic districts, the terzi, covers the south-western hill. It brings together the cathedral, its museum, the former Santa Maria della Scala hospital and the picture gallery. A combined ticket gives access to the whole cathedral complex; allow half a day to see it without rushing. The streets running down to Porta San Marco, below, are quieter and lined with small places to try pici, thick hand-rolled pasta and the great local speciality.

The Terzo di San Martino and the Campo

To the east, the Terzo di San Martino slopes down from the Campo, the shell-shaped square divided into nine sections in tribute to the Government of the Nine, which ruled the city in the 13th and 14th centuries. Palazzo Pubblico closes it to the south, the Fonte Gaia, whose original carved by Jacopo della Quercia is kept at Santa Maria della Scala, enlivens it to the north. Sit on the bricks at the end of the day rather than on a terrace, where prices follow the view. The streets towards Santa Maria dei Servi offer a fine view over the rooftops.

The Terzo di Camollia and San Domenico

The north of town, crossed by Via Banchi di Sopra, the main shopping street, leads to Porta Camollia, often the entry point from the station thanks to escalators that climb the hill in about ten minutes. To the west, the large brick Basilica of San Domenico holds relics of Saint Catherine of Siena, patron saint of Italy, and faces the cathedral head on. Below it, Fontebranda is one of the covered medieval fountains that once supplied the city. Allow one to two hours for this area.

The Palio and trips to the south

On 2 July and 16 August, ten of the seventeen contrade race a bareback horse around the Campo, covered in earth for the occasion, for three laps lasting about 90 seconds. The city lives for days beforehand to the rhythm of trial races and district dinners: book your accommodation months ahead. Outside the Palio, Siena is a base for southern Tuscany: the Val d'Orcia, Montalcino and Pienza are about an hour's drive, San Gimignano just over an hour by bus via Poggibonsi. Allow two nights to combine the city with a trip into the countryside of central Italy.

Frequently asked questions about Siena

Can you watch the Siena Palio without a ticket?
Yes, the centre of Piazza del Campo is free to enter, standing only. You need to go in several hours before the race, in the sun and with no easy way out. Seats in the stands and on balconies are booked months in advance and are expensive.
Is the Siena Cathedral floor always visible?
No, most of the marble panels are covered for protection for much of the year. They are uncovered during an annual period, usually in summer and early autumn. Outside that window, a few scenes remain visible and the visit is still well worth it.
Siena and San Gimignano in one day: is it realistic?
By car, yes, provided you set off early: about forty minutes separate the two towns. By public transport it is tighter, with a change in Poggibonsi. In that case, give Siena a full day and San Gimignano half a day instead.
Should you climb the Torre del Mangia or the Facciatone?
The Torre del Mangia is higher and more physical, with about 400 steps and access limited by groups. The Facciatone, included in the cathedral ticket, offers a plunging view over the Campo and the tower itself. If time is short, go for the Facciatone.
What are Siena's contrade?
They are the city's seventeen historic districts, each with its own animal or symbolic emblem, colours, church and museum. Plaques and flags in the streets tell you which contrada you are in. Every Sienese belongs to their own from birth.
How many nights to spend in Siena?
One night lets you see the Campo at dusk and in the morning, without the day-trippers from Florence. Two nights leave a day for the Val d'Orcia or Chianti. Beyond that, rent an agriturismo in the countryside instead.

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