The historic centre, from Porta Messina to Porta Catania
Corso Umberto crosses the old town between its two main gates, roughly a kilometre reserved for pedestrians. It is punctuated by squares, churches and palaces, with Piazza IX Aprile and its sea-facing terrace halfway along. The stepped lanes branching off on either side are worth getting lost in. Half a day is enough for the centre, but the walk is far more pleasant before 10 am and after 6 pm, once cruise ship groups have left town.
