Discover Guyana: Kaieteur, Rupununi and things to do

The only English-speaking country in South America, Guyana is largely covered by rainforest. Here you fly over Kaieteur Falls, among the highest single-drop falls in the world, sleep in Amerindian lodges in the Rupununi and stroll between the wooden houses of Georgetown.

Why travel to Guyana?

Guyana appeals for its almost untouched nature: forest covers most of the territory and tourism relies on small lodges run by Amerindian communities. Kaieteur Falls, with a free drop of about 226 metres, can be visited on a one-day flying trip from Georgetown, and the country combines well with neighbouring Suriname.

What to discover in Guyana?

Georgetown, a wooden capital on the Demerara

Built partly below sea level and protected by a long sea defence, the Seawall, Georgetown keeps many painted wooden colonial buildings, including St George's Anglican Cathedral. Stabroek Market, under its cast-iron clock tower, and the botanical gardens, home to manatees, can be visited in a day. One or two nights are enough before heading inland. It is also the northernmost gateway to South America for a nature trip. In the evening, take a taxi rather than walking.

Kaieteur and the falls of the interior

Kaieteur National Park is reached by small plane from Ogle airfield, on the edge of Georgetown, in about an hour. The day trip leaves two to three hours on site for the viewpoints and is often combined with Orinduik Falls, tiered cascades on the Brazilian border. Flights depend on the weather and only leave when sufficiently full: keep a spare day. An overland and river expedition of four to five days, along the Potaro River, is for seasoned travellers only.

Iwokrama and the central forest

The Iwokrama reserve protects several hundred thousand hectares of rainforest in the centre of the country, crossed by the only road linking the coast to the south. Atta lodge and its canopy walkway, some thirty metres above the ground, let you watch birds and monkeys at dawn. There is a chance of spotting a jaguar on the road, but it is never guaranteed. Plan two to three nights and book transport in advance, as the road becomes difficult in the rainy season.

The Rupununi savannas

In the south-west, the Rupununi savannas stretch to Lethem, a border town facing Bonfim in Brazil. The community lodges of Surama, Rewa and Karanambu offer canoe trips, giant otter watching and arapaima fishing, usually on a full-board basis. The Lethem rodeo, held every year at Easter, draws vaqueros from across the region. Go from September to April: from May to August, rains flood part of the savannas and make travel harder.

Cities to visit in Guyana

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Not to miss in Guyana

Six experiences that justify the trip on their own, between great waterfalls and primary forest.

Kaieteur Falls

A curtain of water plunging in a single drop in the heart of the forest, seen from natural viewpoints with no railings and no crowds.

Orinduik Falls

Tiered cascades over red jasper terraces on the Brazilian border, where you can swim between two flights.

Atta canopy walkway

A series of suspension bridges in the treetops of Iwokrama, ideal at dawn for birdwatching.

St George's Cathedral

Georgetown's white wooden Gothic Revival Anglican church, often cited among the tallest wooden religious buildings in the world.

Stabroek Market

A cast-iron hall with its clock tower on the Demerara, the lively commercial heart of the capital since colonial times.

Karanambu giant otters

A historic Rupununi ranch turned lodge, known for watching giant otters on the river in the late afternoon.

Frequently asked questions

How do you visit Kaieteur Falls from Georgetown?
On a one-day flying trip from Ogle airfield, booked through a local agency. The flight takes about an hour each way and the tour often includes Orinduik. Departures are only confirmed with enough passengers and favourable weather.
Can you reach the Rupununi by road from Georgetown?
Yes, along the Linden-Lethem road, partly unpaved, which crosses Iwokrama. By minibus, the full journey takes at least twelve hours and much longer in the rainy season. Many travellers go out by road and return on a domestic flight from Lethem.
Why avoid the Rupununi from May to August?
It is the main rainy season: rivers overflow, part of the savannas is flooded and some tracks become impassable. Lodges sometimes stay open, but excursions are limited. From September to April, wildlife gathers near water holes and travel is much easier.
Can you cross from Guyana to Brazil at Lethem?
Yes, a bridge over the Takutu River links Lethem with Bonfim on the Brazilian side, with a border post on each side. From Bonfim, shared taxis reach Boa Vista in a few hours, making it easy to continue into the Brazilian Amazon.
How do you travel overland from Guyana to Suriname?
From Georgetown, head east to Moleson Creek, about three hours by minibus, then take the ferry across the Corentyne River to South Drain. From there, allow a few more hours by road to Paramaribo. The ferry runs only about once a day: check the day before.
Is Georgetown safe to walk around?
The centre can be visited by day without particular difficulty, keeping an eye on your belongings, especially around Stabroek Market. After dark, get around by a taxi recommended by your accommodation rather than on foot, even for short distances.
What should you eat in Guyana?
Pepperpot, a meat stew made with cassareep of Amerindian origin, is the national dish, served mainly at Christmas. Cook-up rice, curry and roti reflect African and Indian heritage, and coastal fruit is sold as fresh juice in every market.

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