Travelling to Okinawa: which islands to choose and when to go

Turquoise water over coral, castles of the Ryukyu Kingdom, a UNESCO-listed subtropical forest and a cuisine distinct from the rest of Japan: Okinawa is discovered island by island. A week lets you combine the main island with a more distant archipelago.

Why travel to Okinawa?

Okinawa is Japan's southernmost prefecture, made up of more than 160 islands between Kyushu and Taiwan. Once the Ryukyu Kingdom, independent until the 19th century, it offers a subtropical climate, gusuku sites listed by UNESCO in 2000 and, since 2021, forests in the north of the main island and on Iriomote listed as natural World Heritage.

What to discover in Okinawa, island by island?

Naha and the south of the main island

Naha, the gateway to the archipelago, is easy to get around on the Yui Rail monorail, which links the airport to the Shuri district over about 17 km. The centre revolves around Kokusai-dori and Makishi public market, where fish bought downstairs is cooked for you upstairs. The south of the island carries the memory of the 1945 Battle of Okinawa: the Peace Park in Itoman and the Prefectural Museum take half a day. Allow two days for Naha and the south, with a car advisable outside the centre.

The centre and the west coast

Between Naha and the Motobu Peninsula, the west coast lines up developed beaches, resort hotels and diving villages around Onna and Yomitan. Chatan, with its American Village, reflects the strong presence of US military bases, which occupy a significant share of the island. The Okinawa Expressway crosses this area in under an hour, but coastal Route 58 is often congested at rush hour. It makes a practical base for three or four nights if you want to alternate beach, snorkelling and trips north and south.

The Motobu Peninsula

About two hours' drive from Naha by expressway, the Motobu Peninsula concentrates several major sites: Ocean Expo Park and its large aquarium, the ruins of Nakijin Castle, listed by UNESCO, and islands linked by bridges. Kouri Bridge, nearly 2 km long, runs over remarkably blue water to Kouri Island. Plan a full day, ideally on a weekday, and a night on site to avoid the late-afternoon drive back on the expressway.

Yanbaru, the northern forest

The northern third of the main island, called Yanbaru, is covered by subtropical forest protected as a national park since 2016, then listed by UNESCO in 2021. With luck, you may spot the Okinawa rail, a nearly flightless bird found nowhere else. Marked trails, waterfalls and kayak outings in the Gesashi mangroves fill one to two days. Cape Hedo, the island's northern tip, is nearly three hours' drive from Naha: sleep in the north rather than making the round trip.

The Kerama Islands

Just 35 to 50 minutes by fast ferry from Tomari port in Naha, the Kerama Islands have formed a national park since 2014, renowned for clear water, snorkelling and sea turtles. Zamami and Tokashiki are the two main islands, with beaches reachable on foot or by local bus. From January to March, humpback whales come to calve in their waters, and whale-watching trips leave from Zamami. A day trip is possible, but a night on the island lets you enjoy the beaches after the day visitors leave.

The Miyako archipelago

About 50 minutes' flight from Naha, Miyako is a flat island fringed with very white sand beaches. Three long bridges link it to neighbouring islands, including Irabu Bridge, about 3.5 km long, among the longest toll-free bridges in Japan. Visitors come mainly for snorkelling, the cliffs of Cape Higashi-hennazaki and a quieter atmosphere than on the main island. Three to four days with a rental car are enough to tour it; with no passenger ferries to Naha any more, flying is essential.

The Yaeyama Islands

The Yaeyama, about an hour's flight from Naha and close to Taiwan, form Japan's south-western tip. Ishigaki serves as the base, with Kabira Bay and dive sites known for manta rays. From its port, ferries reach Taketomi in about fifteen minutes, a village of red-tiled roofs toured by water-buffalo cart, and Iriomote in 40 to 50 minutes, an island nearly 90% covered in jungle and mangroves. Allow four to five days. To reach Okinawa, direct flights leave from Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka, ideal bases for a trip around Japan.

Cities to visit in Okinawa

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Okinawa in pictures

Okinawa's must-sees

Ryukyu Kingdom heritage, memorial sites, viewpoints and underwater worlds, from Naha to the most remote islands.

Shuri Castle

The former royal palace of Ryukyu in Naha, listed by UNESCO. Destroyed by fire in 2019, its main hall is being rebuilt: check progress before visiting.

Churaumi Aquarium

The large aquarium in Ocean Expo Park, Motobu. Its huge Kuroshio Sea tank holds whale sharks and manta rays behind a giant acrylic panel.

Peace Memorial Park

In Itoman, on the southern cliffs, it honours the victims of the Battle of Okinawa. The Cornerstone of Peace steles bear more than 240,000 names.

Sefa-utaki

The most sacred site of the Ryukyu Kingdom, listed by UNESCO, in Nanjo: a passage between two leaning rocks opens onto a view of Kudaka Island.

Cape Manzamo

A coral limestone cliff in Onna shaped like an elephant's trunk, above very clear sea. Most beautiful in the late afternoon, at high tide.

Nakijin Castle Ruins

Winding ramparts of a castle from the 13th to 15th centuries, listed by UNESCO. Okinawan cherry trees bloom there from late January.

Kokusai-dori

Naha's main street, about 1.6 km long, lined with shops and izakaya. The covered alleys nearby house Makishi market.

Kabira Bay

An Ishigaki bay of turquoise water dotted with islets. Swimming is prohibited: explore it by glass-bottom boat above the coral.

Furuzamami Beach

On Zamami Island, a fine-sand beach with reefs reachable from the shore, where swimmers regularly see sea turtles.

Frequently asked questions about Okinawa

Should you choose between the main island, Miyako and Ishigaki?
For a week, combine the main island (three or four nights) with a single remote archipelago, Miyako for beaches or Ishigaki for Iriomote and Taketomi. Both require a flight from Naha. With ten days or more, all three become feasible.
Can you visit Okinawa without a car?
Naha and the Kerama Islands, yes: the monorail, local buses and ferries are enough. For Motobu, Yanbaru or Miyako, a car is almost essential, as buses are slow and infrequent. Coach tours from Naha do however cover the aquarium and the peninsula in a day.
Are the Kerama Islands possible as a day trip from Naha?
Yes, the fast ferry reaches Zamami or Tokashiki in 35 to 50 minutes from Tomari port. Book both ways, especially in summer, and keep a plan B: boats are cancelled in rough seas. A night on the island is more relaxing.
Has Shuri Castle been rebuilt?
The main hall, destroyed by the fire of October 2019, is being reconstructed, with completion scheduled for 2026. During the works, the site stays open and lets you watch the craftspeople at work. Check the state of progress before your visit.
When can you see humpback whales in Okinawa?
From January to March, around the Kerama Islands, where they come to give birth. Boat trips leave from Naha or Zamami and last about three hours. The sea can be rough in winter: bring seasickness medication.
Can you swim in Okinawa in winter?
Rarely with pleasure: the water drops to around 21 °C from January to March and the north wind cools the air. It is however a good season for hikes in Yanbaru, whale watching and cultural visits, with lower prices than in summer.
How do you get to Iriomote?
There is no airport: fly to Ishigaki, then take a 40-to-50-minute ferry to Ohara or Uehara ports. On the island, rent a car or book guided kayak and jungle hiking trips, which are closely regulated to protect the Iriomote cat.
What souvenirs should you bring back from Okinawa?
Ceramic shisa, the guardian lions placed on rooftops, colourful Ryukyu blown glass, hand-dyed bingata fabric and brown sugar from the small islands. Makishi market and Tsuboya street, the potters' quarter in Naha, are the best places to shop.

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