Visit Aix-en-Provence

Plane trees along the Cours Mirabeau, mossy fountains at every crossroads, ochre 17th-century facades and, on the horizon, the limestone outline painted by Cézanne: Aix is best enjoyed slowly. Two days for the city, a third for Sainte-Victoire or a trip to the sea.

Why visit Aix-en-Provence?

Founded in 122 BC as Aquae Sextiae, Aix owes its growth to its springs and was the historic capital of Provence. Its old centre is packed with 17th and 18th-century mansions, fountains and markets held every morning. It is also Paul Cézanne's birthplace, and his studio is open to visitors.

Aix-en-Provence must-sees

Museums, fountains and Cézanne sites, most less than twenty minutes' walk from the Cours Mirabeau.

Cours Mirabeau

A grand avenue shaded by plane trees, lined with cafés on one side and mansions on the other, dotted with fountains including a warm-water one covered in moss.

Cézanne's studio

The Lauves studio, built in 1902, keeps the objects from the painter's still lifes; visits are in small groups and booking is recommended.

Bibémus quarries

Former ochre stone quarries where Cézanne painted a series of canvases; guided tours only, with a view of Sainte-Victoire at the end of the route.

Granet museum

Housed in the former priory of the Knights of Malta, it gathers old master paintings, a Cézanne room and, in a nearby chapel, the Planque modern art collection.

Hôtel de Caumont

An 18th-century mansion turned art centre, with temporary exhibitions, formal French gardens and a tea room in the former reception rooms.

St Sauveur Cathedral

It combines a 5th-century baptistery, a Romanesque cloister and a Gothic nave; its carved walnut doors date from the early 16th century.

La Rotonde fountain

Inaugurated in 1860 at the entrance to the Cours Mirabeau, this vast fountain with lions and three allegorical statues is the city's landmark.

Pavillon Vendôme

A 17th-century pleasure pavilion with its formal garden, away from the bustle, now hosting temporary exhibitions in its elegant rooms.

Vasarely Foundation

A manifesto building designed by Victor Vasarely west of the city, whose large hexagonal halls house his monumental optical art works.

What to see in Aix-en-Provence, district by district?

Old Aix and its squares

North of the Cours Mirabeau, the medieval centre strings together lanes and squares: Richelme for the market, the Town Hall with its clock tower, Albertas and its fountain framed by classical facades. You get around almost entirely on foot, and the whole district takes half a day. Walk up to St Sauveur Cathedral, where an early Christian baptistery, a Romanesque nave and a Gothic nave sit side by side. This historic capital of Provence remains one of the most consistent art cities in southern France.

The Mazarin district

Laid out in the 17th century south of the Cours on a grid plan, the Mazarin district lines up mansions with carved doorways, quiet streets and the Four Dolphins fountain, on the square of the same name. It is Aix's most aristocratic district, ideal for an hour's stroll in the late afternoon, when the stone turns golden. It is also home to the Granet museum and the church of St Jean de Malte, on its eastern edge. Several mansions open their courtyards during Heritage Days, in September.

In Cézanne's footsteps

Born in Aix in 1839, Paul Cézanne painted most of his work here. Bronze studs in the pavement mark a trail of about two hours through the centre, between his birthplace, his school and the cafés he frequented. About twenty minutes' walk north, the Lauves studio, kept as he left it, is visited in small groups. The Painters' Ground just above offers the viewpoint he painted over Sainte-Victoire. Allow a full day if you add the Bibémus quarries.

Markets and Aix food

Aix holds markets every morning. The one on Place Richelme, devoted to fruit, vegetables and cheese, runs daily; on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, stalls spread to Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine, with flowers, bric-a-brac and textiles. The calisson, almond and candied melon paste under royal icing, remains the most famous speciality. Come before 10 am to avoid the Saturday crush, then have lunch on a terrace on the Forum des Cardeurs.

Sainte-Victoire and the Pays d'Aix

Mount Sainte-Victoire rises about fifteen kilometres east. The classic trail starts from the Cabassols car park and reaches the Croix de Provence, at 946 m, in about two hours; allow four hours return and plenty of water. From 1 June to 30 September, access to the massif is regulated according to fire risk: check the map published the evening before. Further south, the Camp des Milles, a memorial to internment and deportation, is less than ten kilometres from the centre.

Trips to the sea and the Vaucluse

Aix is a handy base for exploring without changing hotels. Marseille and its Old Port are 30 km away, 30 to 40 minutes by coach from the bus station. The hilltop villages of the Luberon are less than an hour's drive, and the city of the popes, Avignon, about 80 km away, is easy to combine by train or car in a day. For a week in Provence, two to three nights in Aix complement a stay on the coast well.

Frequently asked questions about Aix-en-Provence

Do you need to book to visit Cézanne's studio?
It is strongly recommended. The Lauves studio is small and visited in limited groups at set times. In high season, slots go several days ahead. Combine the visit with the Painters' Ground, ten minutes' walk away, for the view of Sainte-Victoire.
Can you climb to the Croix de Provence in half a day?
Yes. From the Cabassols car park, allow about two hours up and an hour and a half down, for an elevation gain of around 500 m. Start early, carry at least two litres of water and check access to the massif between June and September.
How do you get from Aix-en-Provence to Marseille's Old Port?
The easiest option is the express coach from Aix bus station, which reaches Saint-Charles station in 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic, with very frequent departures. The regional train is also possible but slower. By car, avoid rush hour on the motorway.
How long does the TGV take from Paris or Lyon?
About 3 hours from Paris Gare de Lyon and 1 hr 10 to 1 hr 30 from Lyon Part-Dieu, to Aix-en-Provence TGV station. Add around twenty minutes by shuttle to reach the city centre.
What is a calisson from Aix?
A shuttle-shaped confection made from ground almonds and candied melon, set on a thin sheet of wafer paper and topped with royal icing. Confectioners in the centre sell them by weight or in boxes; some offer workshop tours.
When is the Aix opera festival held?
Every July, mainly at the Théâtre de l'Archevêché, an open-air courtyard near the cathedral, and at the Grand Théâtre de Provence. Ticket sales open several months ahead; public rehearsals and free concerts also liven up the city.
Should you stay in Aix or Marseille to explore Provence?
Aix suits Sainte-Victoire, the Luberon and the calm atmosphere of a mid-sized city better. Marseille is preferable for the calanques and nightlife. With a car, Aix avoids Marseille's traffic jams; without one, both are well connected.
Why are there so many fountains in Aix?
The city sits on springs, some of them lukewarm, used since Antiquity. The Fontaine Moussue on the Cours Mirabeau, covered in vegetation, is fed by naturally warm water. The Thermes Sextius, a modern spa, carry on this tradition.
How do you visit the Camp des Milles from Aix?
The memorial site lies less than ten kilometres south-west, reachable by bus from the centre or by car. Allow two to three hours: the visit traces the internment and deportation of thousands of people, in the only large French camp from that period still intact.

Plan your trip to Aix-en-Provence

Build your day-by-day itinerary and manage budget, bookings and packing in PlanTripNow.
Aperçu de l'application PlanTripNow