Around the Plaza del Pilar
Every visit starts on this long esplanade running alongside the Ebro, which links the city's two cathedrals. Step into the free basilica for the Regina Martyrum dome painted by Goya, then take the tower lift, a few euros depending on the source, to read the city's layout. La Seo, at the far end, costs 10 € with its museums and deserves an hour for the Flemish tapestries. South of the square, the El Tubo alleys remain the evening meeting point: expect about 3 € for a beer and start early, as the bar counters fill quickly at weekends.
