Visit Coimbra

A hill crowned by one of Europe's oldest universities, stairways tumbling down to the Mondego, students in black capes and fado sung beneath windows: Coimbra fills one busy day, ideally as a stop between Porto and Lisbon.

Why stop in Coimbra?

Coimbra is home to Portugal's oldest university, settled for good on the Alta hill in 1537 and listed by UNESCO in 2013 together with Rua da Sofia. Its baroque Joanina Library, Romanesque cathedral and student traditions make it the richest cultural stop between Porto and Lisbon.

Coimbra's must-sees

Most sights sit on one hill and its two riverbanks, to be explored on foot with plenty of steps.

Joanina Library

An 18th-century baroque library with gilded and lacquered woodwork, holding tens of thousands of old books. At night, bats hunt the insects that would otherwise damage the volumes.

Paço das Escolas

The former royal palace that became the heart of the university, around a vast courtyard open to the Mondego. Ceremonial hall, Saint Michael's Chapel and the clock tower nicknamed the goat.

Sé Velha

A 12th-century Romanesque cathedral with the look of a fortress, battlements and a massive façade. Inside, a flamboyant Gothic altarpiece and a peaceful cloister, halfway between Alta and Baixa.

Santa Cruz Monastery

Founded in the 12th century, it holds the tombs of Afonso Henriques, Portugal's first king, and his son Sancho I. Manueline façade and a nave lined with azulejos.

Santa Clara-a-Velha

A 14th-century Gothic monastery long buried under Mondego mud, now cleared. Its arches rise from an archaeological site by the water, with an interpretation centre.

Quinta das Lágrimas

An estate with Romantic gardens where legend places the love story of Pedro and Inês de Castro. The Fountain of Tears is said to have flowed since Inês was murdered in 1355.

Conímbriga Ruins

A Roman city 16 km south, with ramparts, baths and houses floored with colourful mosaics. The on-site museum displays the objects unearthed there.

What to discover in Coimbra, from the Alta to the Mondego?

The Alta, the university hill

Founded in 1290 in Lisbon, the university moved for good in 1537 into the former royal palace that crowns the hill. Around it, the Alta mixes faculties, steep lanes and repúblicas, communal student houses with decorated façades. You climb up from the Baixa by the Quebra-Costas stairway, literally the back-breaker, or by the market lift to spare your legs. Set aside half a day: the Paço das Escolas and the Joanina are visited on timed slots, and the tower climb gives the best view of the river.

The Baixa and Rua da Sofia

The lower town gathers shops, cafés and everyday life around pedestrian Rua Ferreira Borges and Praça 8 de Maio. The Santa Cruz Monastery holds the tombs of the country's first two kings, and the neighbouring church, turned into a café in the early 20th century, hosts fado in the evening. Further north, Rua da Sofia, laid out in the 16th century, lines up the former university colleges listed by UNESCO along with the Alta. Allow two hours to walk it at an easy pace.

Santa Clara, the left bank of the Mondego

A fifteen-minute walk from the Baixa over the Santa Clara bridge is enough to change atmosphere. The Gothic monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha, flooded by the river for centuries, has been cleared and can be visited with a small museum. Higher up, Santa Clara-a-Nova holds the tomb of the sainted Queen Isabel. The gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas tell the story of Pedro and Inês, and the Portugal dos Pequenitos park, opened in the 1940s, shows the country's monuments in miniature: an hour's stop children love.

Around Coimbra: Conímbriga and Buçaco

About 16 km south, Conímbriga is one of the largest Roman sites in the country, with remarkably preserved mosaics and a modern museum: allow three hours including the journey. To the north, some thirty kilometres away, Buçaco Forest surrounds a former convent and a neo-Manueline palace turned hotel, near the 1810 battlefield. Coimbra is about an hour by train from Porto and two hours from Lisbon: two nights are enough to see the town and one of these excursions.

Frequently asked questions about Coimbra

Why do Coimbra students wear a black cape?
It is the traje académico, the traditional academic dress, worn at ceremonies, festivals and often day to day. The cape sometimes bears tears or badges with symbolic meaning. During the Queima das Fitas in May, graduating students also wear ribbons in their faculty's colours.
Do you need to book to see the Joanina Library?
It is strongly advised in summer and during holidays. Entry is in small groups on slots of about twenty minutes, and the university's combined ticket states your time. Without a booking, come at opening time.
How does Coimbra fado differ from Lisbon fado?
It was born among students, is sung by men wearing the cape and often takes the form of a serenade. The fado of Lisbon, more popular in origin, is sung by women as well as men. The Coimbra guitar also has its own tuning and sound.
Is one day enough for Coimbra as a stop between Porto and Lisbon?
For the Alta, the Joanina, the Sé Velha and the Baixa, yes, provided you arrive in the morning. Add a night if you want to see the Santa Clara bank, catch a fado show in the evening or reach the Conímbriga ruins.
What is the story of Pedro and Inês at Quinta das Lágrimas?
Prince Pedro loved Inês de Castro, lady-in-waiting to his wife. Seen as a threat to the kingdom, she was murdered in 1355 on the king's orders. Once king, Pedro had two of the killers executed. Their tombs face each other in Alcobaça Monastery.
How do you get to the Conímbriga ruins without a car?
Buses link Coimbra with Condeixa-a-Nova, about two kilometres from the site, with a few direct services on some days. Check timetables the day before, as frequencies are low at weekends. A taxi from Coimbra remains the simplest option for a half-day trip.

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